Time to go fishing. Here are three reliable choices, for both finfish and shellfish.
The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House, 55 years old, recently completed a renovation. But don't be concerned. You'll find crisp shrimp dumplings and Shanghai shrimp with vegetables in Asian wine sauce -- but still can order fried Ipswich clams, steamed lobster, and Dover sole meunière.
Fish sorting was under way in the parking lot on a recent afternoon at Fishbar on the Lake in Montauk. Try the steamed lobster and the lobster roll, pan-seared scallops with Hoppin' John, fish tacos and the cioppino-style seafood stew.
That's American lobster and you'll savor it at Jordan Lobster Farms in Island Park. Casual and focused, this spot prepares first-class steamed lobster and lobster rolls. Also: pick the raw oysters and clams, fried flounder and chips, chowders, Maryland crabcake.