Souper Fry is an order-at-the-counter joint specializing in hand-cut French fries and house-made soups. The place, deliberately designed with the scruffy look of a New York City subway station, was crowded with students from nearby Calhoun High School the afternoon I stopped in.
Owners Jonathan and Nicole Passman (who also own Bedlam Street Fish & Clam Company in Cold Spring Harbor) are Calhoun alumni, as is Passman's brother Matt, who manages the place. Chef Kelley Joyce used to cook at the Cold Spring Harbor restaurant; the soups are the work of Tim Shea, also from Bedlam Street.

I was wowed by his herbal Manhattan clam chowder, enriched with a touch of cream and brimming with fresh clams. Another impressive brew was the deeply savory chicken-vegetable soup. I also tasted a "wrapini" - a grill-pressed wrap filled with pulled pork, caramelized onions and Cheddar cheese. It came off as somewhat bland. Fries, here, are imbued with that honest potato flavor so hard to come by, in this age of precut frozen potato logs. And while I thought they could have been a trifle crisper, that was a minor shortcoming. You can get yours with any number of mayonnaise-based sauces for dipping, like chipotle or spicy Thai peanut, but my preference is plain old ketchup.