Uncooked fish, once exotic, now is a staple at restaurants across Long Island. Here are four restaurants with snappy sushi.
GINZA, 45 Carmans Rd., Massapequa; 516-882-9688
At first, Ginza seems a mirage: a temple-style building with fish from Tokyo's Tsukiji Market, rising on a former Sizzler site. You can have teriyakis and tempuras, grilled filet mignon and rack of lamb. But the pristine sushi is outstanding, starting with fatty tuna.
DOMO SUSHI, 185 Rte. 25A, East Setauket; 631-751-2299
Domo Sushi sends out almost all the familiar stuff, from tofu teriyaki to shrimp-and-vegetable tempura. And there's excellent yellowtail seviche. The highlights, however, are in nigirizushi, with Spanish mackerel, sea urchin, sweet shrimp, plenty more.
BLUE FISH, 828 S. Oyster Bay Rd., Hicksville; 516-605-0655
Blue Fish swims all over the place, turning out dishes as different from each other as hibachi fare and soba soup, mango tuna and salmon pizza. The traditional sushi stands out, whether in colorful rolls on simply on vinegared rice.
BE-JU, 400 Broad Hollow Rd., Melville, 631-755-0555
The restaurant-within-a-restaurant (it's housed within Jewel) offers some of the best uncooked fish on Long Island thanks to sushi chefs Shigeki Uchiyama and Hiroki Tanii. They present exceptionally rich and meticulously sliced fatty tuna, all soft pink and white; and grand, velvety medium-fatty tuna. Yellowtail, amberjack and Japanese mackerel also are outstanding.