The best things to eat on Long Island

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You don’t have to go searching around for something good to eat this week. Newsday critics have done it for you, ordering their way through menus expensive and cheap. Here are their picks for the best things to eat on Long Island, drawn from their most recent reviews. Order with confidence.

Pappardelle with veal sauce at Robke’s Country Inn

Ribbons of pappardelle in a velvety
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Ribbons of pappardelle in a velvety "secret" veal sauce are dotted with chunks of Pecorino Romano cheese at Robke's Country Inn in Northport.

Fried calamari at Robke’s Country Inn

Featherlight fried calamari comes with excellent marinara at
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Featherlight fried calamari comes with excellent marinara at Robke's Country Inn in Northport.

Orange roughy at Robke’s Country Inn

Delicate orange roughy is kissed with extra-virgin olive
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Delicate orange roughy is kissed with extra-virgin olive oil and topped with blistered cherry tomatoes at Robke's Country Inn in Northport.

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Cheeseburger at Robke’s Country Inn

The cheeseburger at Robke's Country Inn in Northport
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

The cheeseburger at Robke's Country Inn in Northport has a slightly charred crust and rosy-pink interior, and comes with roughed-up, addictive fries.

Red-snapper al forno at Robke’s Country Inn

Red-snapper al forno is baked to suppleness and
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Red-snapper al forno is baked to suppleness and anointed with buttery cherry tomatoes at Robke's Country Inn in Northport.

Sagaponack Sangria at Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett

Sagaponack Sangria is a refreshing mix of rosé,
(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

Sagaponack Sangria is a refreshing mix of rosé, Cognac and Chambord flecked with cucumber, mint and berries at Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett.

Swordfish at Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett

Local swordfish are perfectly grilled and paired with
(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

Local swordfish are perfectly grilled and paired with a nutty farro studded with seasonal vegetables at Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett.

Sweet shrimp and scallop ceviche at Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett

A ceviche of sweet shrimp and scallop has
(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

A ceviche of sweet shrimp and scallop has just the right amount of brightness and heat from fresh Fresno chilies, and works well with plantain chips at Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett.

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Littleneck clams at Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett

At Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett, a mix of wood-fired
(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

At Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett, a mix of wood-fired littleneck clams, chickpeas, chorizo and zucchini noodles comes in a fragrant sauce, a well-executed fusion of Spain, North Africa and Long Island.

Peconic oysters at Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett

Peconic oysters arrive fresh, clean and plump with
(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

Peconic oysters arrive fresh, clean and plump with a verjuice mignonette at Wölffer Kitchen Amagansett.

Snow crabs at Ben's Crab

Meaty snow crabs are the highlight of the
(Credit: Linda Rosier)

Meaty snow crabs are the highlight of the Lousiana-style seafood menu at Ben's Crab in Oceanside.

Lobster and shrimp combo at Ben's Crab

The lobster and shrimp combo is tossed with
(Credit: Linda Rosier)

The lobster and shrimp combo is tossed with a house-made Cajun spice blend at Ben's Crab in Oceanside.

Soft-shell crabs at Ben's Crab

Tender soft-shell crabs are battered, fried and paired
(Credit: Linda Rosier)

Tender soft-shell crabs are battered, fried and paired with Cajun fries at Ben's Crab in Oceanside.

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Cherrystone clams at Ben's Crab

Plump local cherrystone clams are tossed with spicy
(Credit: Linda Rosier)

Plump local cherrystone clams are tossed with spicy garlic seasoning at Ben's Crab in Oceanside.

Pop Pops Pasta at Meta Osteria & Barra

Pop Pops Pasta includes broccoli rabe, red peppers,
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Pop Pops Pasta includes broccoli rabe, red peppers, zesty meatballs and toasted bread crumbs at Meta Osteria & Barra in Oceanside.

Bruschette at Meta Osteria & Barra

A trio of bruschette, with ingredients ranging from
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

A trio of bruschette, with ingredients ranging from caponata and goat cheese to pancetta and smoked mozzarella, is worth sharing at Meta Osteria & Barra in Oceanside.

'Bag of Donuts' at Meta Osteria & Barra

The
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

The "Bag of Donuts" at Meta Osteria & Barra in Oceanside holds a tasty shrimp-and-crab spin on zeppole, served with a lemon-caper aioli.

Watermelon salad at Meta Osteria & Barra

Spicy capicola, candied walnuts and Gorgonzola cheese spark
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Spicy capicola, candied walnuts and Gorgonzola cheese spark the watermelon salad at Meta Osteria & Barra in Oceanside.

Duck at Meta Osteria & Barra

Meta Osteria & Barra in Oceanside serves a
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Meta Osteria & Barra in Oceanside serves a juicy, crisp-skinned half of a duck bolstered by caramelized onion risotto.

Crispy kataifi shrimp at Cardoon Mediterranean

At Cardoon Mediterranean in Seaford, finger-length shrimp topped
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

At Cardoon Mediterranean in Seaford, finger-length shrimp topped with crackling shredded phyllo dough (aka kataifi) lounges in a creamy fava- and sausage-dotted "fondue" sauce so delicious you could drink it straight.

Signature burger at Cardoon Mediterranean

The signature burger is topped with melted halloumi
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

The signature burger is topped with melted halloumi cheese, pancetta, arugula, tomato and ramp pesto aioli at Cardoon Mediterranean in Seaford.

Smoked-trout taramasalata at Cardoon Mediterranean

Smoked-trout taramasalata -- creamy Greek dip laced with
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Smoked-trout taramasalata -- creamy Greek dip laced with roe -- wallops with brininess, and is addictive when smeared atop triangles of charred pita bread at Cardoon Mediterranean in Seaford.

Cornish hen at Cardoon Mediterranean

Succulent grilled Cornish hen seethes with pepper, cinnamon,
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Succulent grilled Cornish hen seethes with pepper, cinnamon, and other earthy shawarma spices, drawing cool notes from tzatziki underneath and punch from a drizzle of harissa-laced sauce at Cardoon Mediterranean in Seaford.

Halibut crudo at Cardoon Mediterranean

Halibut crudo with grapefruit, fennel, citrus, pickled onion,
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Halibut crudo with grapefruit, fennel, citrus, pickled onion, chilies and coriander is served at Cardoon Mediterranean in Seaford.

Pan-fried leek dumplings at Grain House

Pan-fried leek dumplings are filled with chopped flat
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Pan-fried leek dumplings are filled with chopped flat chives, bits of scrambled egg and strands of vermicelli noodles at Grain House in Uniondale.

Minced pork with eggplant at Grain House

Minced pork with bright-purple eggplant is a winning
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Minced pork with bright-purple eggplant is a winning dish at Grain House in Uniondale.

Stir-fried cauliflower at Grain House

Stir-fried cauliflower gets a savory assist from curry,
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Stir-fried cauliflower gets a savory assist from curry, cilantro and dried red peppers at Grain House in Uniondale.

Cumin chicken at Grain House

Most of Long Island's Northern Chinese restaurants serve
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Most of Long Island's Northern Chinese restaurants serve a version of cumin lamb. At Grain House in Uniondale, the franchise has also been extended to chicken, tender slices that have been inundated with cumin and showered with dried red peppers.

Wood ear salad at Grain House

At Grain House in Uniondale, wood ear salad
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

At Grain House in Uniondale, wood ear salad features big clumps of earthy wood ear mushrooms deluged with roughly chopped cilantro.

Calamari at Umberto's

Crispy, fried calamari is tossed with salt and
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Crispy, fried calamari is tossed with salt and pepper and served with a side of warm, spicy marinara sauce at Umberto's in Manhasset.

Cafona pizzetta at Umberto's

Cafona pizzetta is topped with roasted potatoes, capacollo,
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Cafona pizzetta is topped with roasted potatoes, capacollo, cherry tomatoes and marscapone cheese at Umberto's in Manhasset.

Zuppa di Napoli at Umberto's

Zuppa di Napoli, a light seafood stew with
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Zuppa di Napoli, a light seafood stew with mussels, clams and shrimp, is served atop slices of toasted bread that absorb the juices. It's a winning starter at Umberto's in Manhasset.

Corleone panino at Umberto's

It's hard to refuse the Corleone panino (of
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

It's hard to refuse the Corleone panino (of fried chicken, broccoli rabe, fresh mozzarella, cherry peppers) at Umberto's in Manhasset.

Chicken with broccoli rabe at Umberto's

Chicken with broccoli rabe at Umberto's in Manhasset
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Chicken with broccoli rabe at Umberto's in Manhasset is an all-American assemblage of grilled, skinless chicken breasts obscured by a heap of broccoli rabe and cherry peppers. It's as satisfying as it is virtuous and, if you possess the restraint to leave some over, it makes for a good cold lunch the next day.

Meat and cheese boards at Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar

Meat and cheese boards at Da Gigi Trattoria
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Meat and cheese boards at Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar in Lynbrook may include buffalo ricotta with honey, Parmesan cheese, dry salami, 'nduja sausage, speck, prosciutto di Parma and porchetta.

Bucatini with 'nduja sausage and tomato sauce at Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar

Spicy 'nduja sausage sparks bucatini pasta with tomato
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Spicy 'nduja sausage sparks bucatini pasta with tomato sauce and caciocavallo cheese at Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar in Lynbrook.

Capellacci stuffed with burrata and pistachio at Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar

Capellacci stuffed with burrata and pistachio is finished
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Capellacci stuffed with burrata and pistachio is finished with stracchino cheese sauce at Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar in Lynbrook. It's sensational.

Red Sicilian shrimp at Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar

Vivid pan-seared, red Sicilian shrimp is served atop
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Vivid pan-seared, red Sicilian shrimp is served atop cannellini beans and arugula, and dusted with pistachio crumbs, at Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar in Lynbrook.

Tiramisu at Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar

A very rich tiramisu leads the sweets at
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

A very rich tiramisu leads the sweets at Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar in Lynbrook.

Fried whiting at Greek Captain

Our favorite starter by a nautical mile at
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Our favorite starter by a nautical mile at Greek Captain in Glen Cove is the fried whiting, a pile of little, headless butterflied fish that you eat whole.

Littleneck clams at Greek Captain

Littleneck clams on the half shell are served
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Littleneck clams on the half shell are served with cocktail sauce and horseradish at Greek Captain in Glen Cove.

Fried fillet of sole at Greek Captain

Fried fillet of sole is one of the
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Fried fillet of sole is one of the well-done classics at Greek Captain in Glen Cove.

Red snapper at Greek Captain

Red snapper is one of the whole fish
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Red snapper is one of the whole fish available grilled at Greek Captain in Glen Cove.

Pupusas at Cafe Bethel

Pupusas, or stuffed corn cakes, are packed to
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Pupusas, or stuffed corn cakes, are packed to order at Cafe Bethel in Freeport. They come in a rotating selection of flavors, including a jalapeño and mozzarella version that pairs stringy melted cheese with flecks of fresh chili pepper, and a chicken and cheese that pairs the same mozzarella with shredded chicken.

Pollo con tajadas at Cafe Bethel

Pollo con tajadas, crispy pieces of fried chicken
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Pollo con tajadas, crispy pieces of fried chicken slathered in a marinade of mayo and mustard, bathed in flour and fried to order, served with green plantains and cabbage at Cafe Bethel in Freeport.

Sweet plantains at Cafe Bethel

Sweet plantains are deep fried until their outsides
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Sweet plantains are deep fried until their outsides are crisp and paired with tart crema at Cafe Bethel in Freeport.

Sopa de res at Cafe Bethel

Sopa de res is a beef soup served
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Sopa de res is a beef soup served with hearty chunks of potato, carrot, corn and cabbage at Cafe Bethel in Freeport.

Snow cones at Cafe Bethel

Snow cones come in flavors such as strawberry,
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Snow cones come in flavors such as strawberry, blueberry, fresh lime and passion fruit, topped with tamarind and condensed milk at Cafe Bethel in Freeport.

Wild mushroom ravioli at Basil Cafe & Restaurant

Wild mushroom ravioli stuffed with crimini, shiitake and
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Wild mushroom ravioli stuffed with crimini, shiitake and portabello mushrooms, is served with sundried tomatoes in a pink-peppercorn garlic sauce at Basil Cafe & Restaurant in St. James.

Sauteed eggplant at Basil Cafe & Restaurant

Sauteed eggplant topped with crushed walnuts and carmelized
(Credit: Daniel Brennan)

Sauteed eggplant topped with crushed walnuts and carmelized onion is served with pita bread at Basil Cafe & Restaurant in St. James.

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