Are you ready for another slab of meat loaf? Maybe one more macaroni and cheese? Big burger? Iceberg wedge, perhaps?

Yes, the fundamental food groups of 2010 are ready for you at The Grill on Pantigo. More important, they're very good here.

The newcomer took over the site of Wei Fun, a Chinese pipe dream that opened late in the 2006 season and merited a longer run. But the sleek look lives in its successor. The decor is identical, from the antique mill gears turned into eye-catching artwork to the trio of TVs above the bar. And you still can eat outdoors.

This Grill is part of the East Hampton restaurant group that includes The 1770 House, East Hampton Point and cittanuova. Kevin Penner, who earned three stars at 1770 and elsewhere, directs the kitchen. It's devoted to tasty, risk-averse American dishes and, just to be sure, you can have linguine with clam sauce, too.


THE BEST

That's a sweet, lightly briny, very good pasta production, with tender shellfish and a hint of butter. But before going there, start with white, Spanish anchovies and olives - an appetizing Euroalternative. Or consider rich, full-flavored crisp pork belly; the delicious bacon-in-the-extreme arrives alongside tart, marinated sheaves of cucumber and refreshing guacamole. "Imperial crabmeat Dijonnaise" means a fine cocktail minus the glass, paired with a mayo-textured sauce flecked with mustard seeds. Raw oysters are Wellfleets; the clams, littlenecks. Penner excels with a thick, moist cut of swordfish finished with olives and capers; and roasted local fluke in lemony brown butter. The meat loaf with mashed potatoes and the hamburger are as comfortably at home here as they are at 1770 House's tavern. On the side, sample macaroni and cheese, fried onions, creamed spinach.


THE REST

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Satisfying, organic Giannone Farms chicken; husky double-cut lamb chops with roasted garlic; ample salads. Airy but bland doughnuts with chocolate and berry sauces, too-sweet chocolate mousse, better chocolate-layer cake.


BOTTOM LINE

All the comforts.