The East End's garden of restaurants sprouts annuals and perennials. This season, there are plenty of newcomers to compete with the veterans, on the North Fork, in the Hamptons and in Montauk.

If you're looking for a 2010 theme, it's local ingredients served in relaxed settings.

That doesn't mean cheap meals reign. But there's a broader price range in this post-recession summer, plus a greater variety of eateries than in the last couple of years.

The timetable for openings varies. But here's a look at what to expect under the summer sun.

SOUTH FORK

Four Seasons Caterer, 15 Prospect St., Southampton, 631-283-3354, fourseasonscaterer.com

COST $$

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The caterer, associated with Clamman Seafood Market, is known for its artful theme events, from luau to clambake. This season, it becomes a restaurant, specializing in "summer grilling" and American fare.


The Grill at Pantigo, 203 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton, 631-329-2600

COST $$-$$$

Kevin Penner, of The 1770 House, transforms the home of the very stylish but short-lived Asian restaurant Wei Fun into a warm, American spot suitable for "everyday" dining. Here come steaks, burgers, meatloaf, shellfish cocktails and plenty of local seafood, sauteed or grilled.


1 North Steakhouse, 1 North Rd., Hampton Bays, 631-594-3419, 1northsteakhouse.com

COST $$-$$$

This steakhouse opened last July and has established itself as a local mainstay. In addition to first-class filet mignon, lobster bisque and "pork wings," or shanks prepared Buffalo-style, are highlights.


Race Lane, 31 Race Lane, East Hampton, 631-324-5022

COST $$-$$$

Race Lane, an American restaurant with some continental asides, moves into the space vacated by The Lodge Bar & Grill, which has closed; and best remembered as the original Laundry. The modern building was designed by Norman Jaffe, and the architect's style is back.

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Serafina East Hampton, 104 N. Main St., East Hampton, 631-267-3500, serafinarestaurant.com

COST $$-$$$

Manhattanite goes east, taking over the former site of Matto. Owners Vittorio Assaf and Fabio Granato are bringing casual Italian cuisine with them, including thin-crust pizzas, gnocchi in pesto, and seafood, beef and poultry prepared on a wood-burning grill. Outdoor seating on the pergola-topped patio, too.


Rumba, 43 Canoe Place Rd., Hampton Bays, 631-594-3544, rumbarumbar.com

COST $$-$$$

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This new waterside spot offers dock-and-dine service and a wide selection of rums and rum drinks. Chef-owner David Hersh, newly arrived from New Orleans, serves what he calls "inspired island cuisine," such as soy and sugarcane salmon, jerk chicken and, of course, a "cheeseburger in Paradise."


Bostwick's Chowder House, 277 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton, 631-324-1111, bostwickseh.com

COST $$

The owners of the former Bostwick's on the Harbor have taken over the space that was Cherrystones and are featuring a moderately priced roster of seafood dishes, raw bar items, rolls and sandwiches. And, of course, the namesake house-made chowders - clam (New England and Manhattan), corn and a lobster bisque. Seating is both in- and outdoors.


Pizzetteria Brunetti, 103 Main St., Westhampton Beach, 631-288-3003

COST $-$$

Michael Brunetti and his son Jason are targeting Memorial Day for the debut of an authentic Neapolitan-style pizzeria. Quarters are tight, allowing for only a few counter stools, but there may be outdoor seating, as well. The father-son team (who studied the art of Neapolitan pizza in San Francisco) interned at Motorino, a noted Brooklyn pizzeria. Their oven, made in Naples, will be fueled by both wood and dried grapevines. They will draw upon what's local and seasonal for toppings.


D'Canela, 195 Main St., Amagansett, 631-604-1900, dcanela.com

COST $$

In the space that used to house Cafe on Main is this sassy pan-Latin newcomer serving the flavors of Mexico, Colombia, Argentina and Ecuador (birthplace of owner Luis Aucapina). Here, you can have huevos rancheros for breakfast, a Cuban sandwich for lunch and churrasco (Ecuadorean steak) at night.


Exile Bar & Grill, 231 Main St., Amagansett, 631-267-6399, exilebarandgrill.com

COST $$

In the quiet of winter, this Mediterranean bar and grill opened on the site that used to house Mezzaluna (and before that, Gordon's). The menu features small plates - not only Spanish tapas but also Italian antipasti and Mediterranean meze. There are also thin-crust pizzas from a wood-fired oven as well as artisanal cheeses and meats.


Love Lane Cafe, 3556 Montauk Hwy., Sagaponack

COST $-$$$

The old Fairway restaurant at the Poxabogue Golf Center in Sagaponack is being reborn as the South Fork branch of Mattituck's Love Lane Kitchen. The new place will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner and, as in Mattituck, generate its New American menu according to what's seasonal, fresh and local. Owner Mike Avella (a guy who roasts his own coffee beans) expects to open before July 4. 

MONTAUK


Clemente's Maryland Crab House, 448 West Lake Dr., Montauk, 631-668-6677

COST $$-$$$

This newly opened branch of the popular Sheepshead Bay restaurant is serving up seafood on the site of the former Havana Beach Club. Here you'll find crab chowder, an "angry" lobster roll (with chipotle mayo) and an all-you-can-eat blue crab deal at $29.95 a person.


Gulf Coast Kitchen, 32 Star Island Rd., Montauk, 631-668-3100, montaukyachtclub.com

COST $$-$$$

The yacht club welcomes a new chef and a different menu this season. Chef Robbin Haas, who recently operated restaurants in Guatemala and Florida, emphasizes seasonal, New American dishes, including updated clam chowders, seared diver scallops with fava beans, sauteed fluke with toasted hazelnuts and tropical dishes.


Navy Beach, 16 Navy Rd., Montauk, 631-668-6868, navybeach.com

COST $$-$$$

The Navy Road address, usually known for its beachfront site and sunset view more than for the restaurants that have occupied it, now is the residence of Navy Beach. You'll find a beach-house style, homey fare and seafood from veteran chef Paul LaBue, from lobster potpie and Italian fish stew, halibut seviche and fried chicken. Live music this weekend.

NORTH FORK

 
Bay & Hearth, Main Road, Southold, 731-765-8877

COST $$

Slated for a late-June or early-July opening, this restaurant at Port of Egypt Marine succeeds The Seafood Barge, which occupied the waterside site for decades. Construction continues on wraparound, waterview decks. Expect openers such as conch fritters and tuna tartare; main dishes from prime rib and steaks to a soft-shell crab sandwich and grilled chicken-and-mango salad.


Comtesse Thérèse Bistro, 739 Main Rd., Aquebogue, 631-779-2800, comtessetherese.com

COST $$-$$$

Owner Theresa Dilworth expects a July opening for her 28-seat bistro, Long Island's first in a vineyard. Naturally, the place will emphasize wine and local ingredients. Chef Arie Pavlou, of the departed Coeur des Vignes in Southold, said coq au vin, duck confit, lamb stew and smoked bluefish will be among the choices.


Luce & Hawkins, 400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport, 631-722-2900, jedediahhawkinsinn.com

COST $$-$$$

Chef Keith Luce overhauls the former Jedediah's at the handsomely restored inn with contemporary American cuisine. The Italianate building dates to 1863. In addition to Luce & Hawkins, you'll also find Luce's Landing, a sunny, more casual, small-plates eatery. Luce's resume includes a stint as sous chef at the White House in the first Clinton administration.


Gran1556 Main Rd., Jamesport, 631-779-2844

COST $-$$

A sign outside this Jamesport storefront announces that a wood-oven pizzeria will be opening soon. So far, the phone number remains unconnected. Keep your eyes open for updates.


First Street Restaurant, 100 South St., Greenport, 631-477-6238, vinewinebar.com

COST $$

Vine Wine & Cafe turns its art-gallery space into this New American restaurant. The chef is Steven Lewis, formerly of Jedediah's in Jamesport. The First Street menu, which includes house-cured salmon, assorted house-made fries, local finfish and duck dishes, will be available at the cafe, too.


Noah's, 136 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-6720, chefnoahs.com

COST $$-$$$

Noah Schwartz, the last chef at The Seafood Barge, opened his three-star "small plate" winner in winter on the ex-site of Frisky Oyster Bar. Recommended for fish and shellfish dishes, including a buttery lobster roll, grilled sardines with piquillo peppers, Tasmanian red-crab tacos and yellowtail crudo.


Country Corner Cafe55765 Rte. 25, Southold, 631-765-6766

COST $-$$

This long-standing ice-cream parlor, known for breakfast and lunch, has relocated to new Southold digs. When it opens (any day now), dinner will be offered nightly and year-round. Expect such homey favorites as meat loaf and pot roast. A coffee and espresso menu is new, but the roster of ice-cream treats remains the same.

COMINGS & GOINGS

* Wildthyme in Southampton has a new chef, Alex Algieri, and approach, emphasizing "farm-to-table" sustainable products.

Frisky Oyster Bar in Greenport has departed; the site now is occupied by three-star Noah's. The Frisky Oyster, also in Greenport, is under new management.

* Marco Barrila, formerly of NOI Bistro in Manhattan, is the new chef at Blue Sky, the Mediterranean-style restaurant in Sag Harbor.

* Michael Mandleur, formerly of Almond, The Maidstone Arms and East Hampton Point, succeeds David Intonato as chef at the Jamesport Manor Inn in Jamesport.

* Amply blogged, solar-paneled Southfork Kitchen, a seafood eatery, is expected to open on Sag Harbor Turnpike in Bridgehampton in mid-July.

* Nello Balan's anticipated restaurant in Greenport doesn't look near completion at the ex-site of Ile de Beauté.

* The Shady Lady Inn & Steakhouse in Greenport has closed; the property is for sale.

* The Laundry in East Hampton and 75 Main in Southampton are closed. Likewise, Westhampton Steakhouse in Westhampton Beach and Havana Beach Club in Montauk.

* Also gone: Ed Kleefield's quartet, Prime 103 in East Hampton; JLX Bistro and Grappa in Sag Harbor; and Madame Tong's in Southampton.