Surf and turf used to mean a near-gray filet mignon matched with a just-defrosted lobster tail.

But, with no appetite for nostalgia in this era of designer meat and splashy fish, steak houses are updating the old standby with prime beef and fancy sushi.

Break out the cabernet sauvignon - and sake.

Several of Long Island's top steakeries have added sushi to their repertoire, pushing protein in the extreme. The results are, of course, mixed.

Here are seven steakhouses riding the new wave.

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And, for the record, The Palm in East Hampton does have a sesame-seared tuna appetizer. For posterity: Peter Luger in Great Neck does not offer sushi, period.

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Two Steak & Sushi Den, 1270 Union Tpke., New Hyde Park, 516-358-2222, twoonline.com

FOOD 3 1/2 stars

COST $$$-$$$$

SERVICE Excellent

AMBIENCE Excellent

This extravagant new restaurant has two separate menus: steak house and Japanese. The rich steaks include a dry-aged New York strip from Meyer Ranch in Montana; a grass-fed New York strip from Painted Hills in Oregon; and an American bison rib-eye from Durham Ranch in Wyoming. The "modern" sushi and sashimi have great flair, from seared toro with spicy miso to red snapper with lemon juice and sea salt.

Prime, 117 New York Ave., Huntington, 631-385-1515, restaurantprime.com

FOOD 3 stars

COST $$$-$$$$

SERVICE Very good

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AMBIENCE Excellent

Waterside Prime has a lineup of colorful sushi rolls, familiar sushi and sashimi and a traditional raw bar to buttress the steaks and chops. The red roof roll combines shrimp, avocado, spicy tuna, spicy mayo and eel sauce; the star roll, salmon, mango, tempura crunch, avocado and spicy mayo. Dry-aged strip, Tellers rib-eye, and porterhouse steaks lead the beef. Prime's official surf and turf: butter-poached lobster and petit filet mignon.

Brooks & Porter, 16 Merrick Ave., Merrick, 516-379-9400, brooksandporter.com

FOOD 2 stars

COST $$$

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SERVICE Very good

AMBIENCE Good

The sushi selections at B&P include 15 examples of chef's special roll. You'll also find sashimi, handrolls and combination rolls. The namesake roll: tuna, white tuna, salmon, yellowtail, avocado, cucumber, smelt roe and spicy sauce. Plenty of choices, raw and cooked. Moving steakward, Brooks & Porter sends out a first-class porterhouse and prime rib, creamed spinach and baked potato.

Blackstone Steakhouse, 10 Pinelawn Rd., Melville, 631-271-7780, blackstonesteakhouse.com

FOOD 2 1/2 stars

COST $$$-$$$$

SERVICE Very good

AMBIENCE Very good

Just off Route 110, Blackstone is the business corridor's steak-and-sushi central. The surf-and- turf roll tops spicy lobster with Kobe beef. Other selections: a Kobe-beef tartare roll, a Maine lobster roll, crunchy lobster with avocado and five fish, a triple spicy roll of lobster, tuna, yellowtail, with jalapeños. Steaks: porterhouse, sirloin, rib, filet mignon.

Burton & Doyle, 661 Northern Blvd., Great Neck, 516-487-9200, burtonanddoyle.com

FOOD 2 stars

COST $$$

SERVICE Very good

AMBIENCE Good

FOOD 2 stars

The look and style of Burton & Doyle suggest a traditional, polished-wood steak house. And the kitchen prepares dry-aged, cornfed Nebraska beef, from porterhouse and chateaubriand to sirloin and rib steak. Japanese and Australian Wagyu beef are on the menu, too. From the upfront sushi bar come nigirizushi, or uncooked fish on vinegared rice; and sashimi; plus colorful rolls, including two with Maine lobster.

Rare650, 650 Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 516-496-8000, rare650.com

FOOD 3 stars

COST $$$-$$$$

SERVICE Excellent

AMBIENCE Very good

The reborn and renamed Sagamore Steakhouse now has a lively selection of New American-style crudo. These include striped bass with pine nuts, mission fig and tangerine-infused olive oil; and wild salmon with espresso cream, Sambuca and fennel. The sushi menu is identical to Blackstone's (same owner) and just as good. Japanese Kobe steak and the porterhouse for two stand out among the steaks. Fine side dishes, too.

Tellers an American Chophouse, 605 Main St., Islip, 631-277-7070, tellerschophouse.com

FOOD 2 1/2 stars

COST $$$-$$$$

SERVICE Very good

AMBIENCE Excellent

Steak at Tellers is money in the bank, as befitting this old bank building. The beef includes the house's trademark, long-bone rib eye and a porterhouse for two, and marinated hanger steak. The eight sushi rolls include the Japanese cowboy, an all-in-one, old-and-new creation that features Kobe beef negimaki topped with lobster tail. Also: triple threat with spicy tuna, salmon and fluke. Add scampi-style shrimp or pan-fried millennium lobster to create surf and turf.