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The Orient: Peerless Chinese in Bethpage

The reopening of The Orient sparked a restaurant version of the Oklahoma Land Rush. Now, it's as if the starting gun goes off every day. Asked about reservations, a waitress replied, "No. Always full." Tommy Tan's updated and brightened dining room earns its devotees, who patiently pack coveted tables from midday on. Tan, the on-site and hands-on owner, has enough customers to fill two eateries. But The Orient already is that.

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