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A server takes a food order at The (Credit: Jin Lee)

A server takes a food order at The Orient in Bethpage. (Oct. 16, 2011)

The Orient: Peerless Chinese in Bethpage

The reopening of The Orient sparked a restaurant version of the Oklahoma Land Rush. Now, it's as if the starting gun goes off every day. Asked about reservations, a waitress replied, "No. Always full." Tommy Tan's updated and brightened dining room earns its devotees, who patiently pack coveted tables from midday on. Tan, the on-site and hands-on owner, has enough customers to fill two eateries. But The Orient already is that.

Patrons dine at The Orient in Bethpage. (Oct.
(Credit: Jin Lee)

Patrons dine at The Orient in Bethpage. (Oct. 16, 2011)

Patrons dine at The Orient in Bethpage. (Oct.
(Credit: Photo by Jin Lee)

Patrons dine at The Orient in Bethpage. (Oct. 16, 2011)

A server takes a food order at The
(Credit: Jin Lee)

A server takes a food order at The Orient in Bethpage. (Oct. 16, 2011)

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Owner Tommy Tan speaks to customers at The
(Credit: Photo by Jin Lee)

Owner Tommy Tan speaks to customers at The Orient in Bethpage. (Oct. 16, 2011)

Baked pork buns, a dim sum offering, are
(Credit: Photo by Jin Lee)

Baked pork buns, a dim sum offering, are arranged for a photograph at The Orient in Bethpage. (Oct. 16, 2011)

Steamed shrimp steamed dumpling dim sum with meat
(Credit: Photo by Jin Lee)

Steamed shrimp steamed dumpling dim sum with meat is arranged for a photograph at The Orient restaurant in Bethpage. (Oct. 16, 2011)

Jumbo pawns with barbecue sauce are arranged for
(Credit: Jin Lee)

Jumbo pawns with barbecue sauce are arranged for a photograph at The Orient restaurant in Bethpage. (Oct. 16, 2011)

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