The Patio at 54 Main is the right address for summer dining.

For too long, the only reason to visit The Patio was the bar. But in its latest incarnation and under its extended name, the retooled and revived restaurant serves very good New American fare.

That's courtesy of executive chef Katherine E. Kane, whose resume includes Nick & Toni's in East Hampton and Dodici in Rockville Centre; and sous chef Michael Dinardo.

The dining areas have been refurbished and refreshed, with wide-planked oak, reflective tiles and more. And the enclosed, slate-floor, tall-windowed patio itself remains a pleasing summer setting.

You'll enjoy the plump, pan-seared sea scallops, set in a colorful, tasty red-pepper coulis with roasted corn, and cilantro to finish. The baked clams are a bit bready, but tender. They benefit from lemon-and-garlic sauce.

Tuna carpaccio, rosy and pristine, gets a boost from dried capers and a lemon-and-herb mayo. The house's crab cakes, though not larger than a respectable chocolate chip cookie, contain sweet shellfish and show up with a lush caper-driven sauce remoulade.

The kitchen excels with tender, sweet "porterhouse lamb chops," a trio of cuts in what's billed as a "mojito reduction." The marinated hanger steak also is recommended, sliced and paired with sauteed onions and mushrooms.

Pan-roasted pork chops, however, are resistant and on the dry side. Artichoke hearts and Gorgonzola cheese don't rescue the dish. But a side order of onion rings helps everything. Seaside, try the grilled swordfish, about an inch thick, with roasted tomato, basil and corn.

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"The Patio Split" for two updates the banana split with fried plantains. It's good. Likewise, the "chip-wich sliders," or ample ice cream sandwiches. Skippable: a mushy, bland "W.H.B" Key lime pie that unintentionally underscores how far you are from Miami Beach.

So, just have your mojito in a glass.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 7/13/07.