The Patio

445 S. Main St. Freeport, NY 516-623-2980

The Patio is an indoor and outdoor restaurant

(Credit: Barbara Alper)

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Critic rating: 1.5

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Type: New American Special features: Water views, Outdoor Seating Price range:

$$$ (Expensive)


The retro, waterfront eatery specializes in New American fare, from chef Colin McKaharay, a veteran of Louie's Oyster Bar & Grill in Port Washington and Dockers in East Quogue.

This establishment also should appeal to the nostalgic. The look is 1960s with a touch of Miami, from sun-hued, vinyl-covered stools and a 30-foot black-top bar, some Polynesian-style columns and torches, plus a waterfall.

There's alfresco seating on the patio itself, as well as an open-air dining room with water views.

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On the menu at The Patio in Freeport

On the menu at The Patio in Freeport is a Long Island lobster roll served with fries and watermelon. (June 18, 2011) (Credit: Barbara Alper)


The evening sky is painted pink and gray, traces of sunlight reflected in the still waters of the boat-filled marina. On the deck of The Patio, at the newly renovated Freeport Inn -- a good distance from the more frenetic Nautical Mile -- the scene is retro-chic: a 1964 motel restaurant awash in 2011 glam.

Back in 1964, though, I can't imagine a Freeport restaurant serving raspberry mojitos -- at least not like the killer version I'm sipping from a jelly jar with a straw wide enough to catch bits of fresh fruit and mint.

As an appetizer, I order Peruvian sashimi with "dueling chili sauces" and "smashed avocado." Sounds ideal. But the sauces are mere squiggles on the plate, the perfectly fresh tuna and escolar cut in big, clumsy hunks. Better is a duet of lump blue-claw crabcakes -- fat, crab-intense cylinders -- served with peach sauce and slaw.

The sky darkens; torches are lit; entrees are served. My Scottish salmon turns out to be a lovely piece of fish topped with fresh orange slices and dill over grilled asparagus. Too late do I learn that a starch (potatoes or corn) must be ordered a la carte. My companion's linguine with white clam sauce looks great; it's made with lots of clam meat out of the shell. A shame the pasta is overcooked to near paste.

We share a mini Key lime tart in a cookie crust. Nice.

On our way out, we stop to admire the little koi pond with waterfall, taking pleasure in a summer night well spent.


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