The Victorian manse in Greenport whose last identity was the Shady Lady Inn has been reborn as The Portly Grape, a hotel with a restaurant and grill room.

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After a makeover — everything is softer and more muted, owner Denise Burke said — the place reopened earlier this month. Executive chef John Norden, who cooked at the River Café in Brooklyn and the Hotel Goldener Hirsch in Salzburg, Austria, offers a New American repertoire with such dishes as Crescent Farm duck breast with herbed risotto and cherry gastrique and a Greenport Ale-braised short rib with celery-root puree and skordalia sauce.

Good news for guys: You can ditch the ties and jackets once required in the Shady Lady's dining room; there’s no longer a dress code.