Matteo's in Roslyn is still going strong in its third decade. Here are three more veteran Italians:
The mother ship of a mini-empire that includes Lombardi's on the Sound in Port Jefferson and Lombardi's on the Bay in Patchogue, Mamma Lombardi's is a perennial favorite for families seeking hearty, southern Italian, including pork braciola, chicken and sausage campagnola, penne arrabbiata, tripe Neapolitan-style.
400 Furrows Rd., Holbrook; 631-737-0774, mammalombardis.com
Owner Giorgio Meriggi's hospitality and chef Ella Rocca's refined cooking are two reasons Stresa has stayed at the top of the Italian heap. Superior dishes include bigoli with cabbage, pancetta and tomatoes, bucatini alla Norma, Dover sole meuniere, rack of lamb and Meriggi's own chocolate souffle.
1524 Northern Blvd., Manhasset, 516-365-6956, stresarestaurant.com
Since 1985, Robert Franceschini has served some of Long Island's best pasta, which, unlike much "homemade" restaurant pasta, is actually made on the premises. Spinach-and-ricotta crespelle (crepes) and lasagna verde Bolognese are excellent.
150 E. Jericho Tpke., Mineola, 516-248-8110, piccolosny.com