A bowl of terrific tom kha gai gets the engine going at Thai Green Leaf in Copiague (relocated from former Massapequa digs). The chicken coconut soup has all the right stuff, an interplay of spicy, sweet and sour in a nuanced broth loaded with velvet-tender pieces of chicken.

The entree chosen looks great on paper: gung pla murk pat, shrimp and calamari stir-fried with onion, mint, chili and black beans. Downcast when served the kind of syrupy-sweet stuff that suburban Thai places have become known for. My compadre’s chili duck is also sugary, but the sweetness is at least slightly mitigated by the heat of the chili peppers.

advertisement | advertise on newsday

The new place is a bit more modest in size than the original, its walls painted a cheery mango color.

Thai Green Leaf is at 47 Montauk Hwy., Copiague, 631-789-8866