3 Consuelo Place Oakdale, NY 631-589-2694
View answers a popular question on Long Island: Can you find a very good restaurant on the water? Yes.
Lessing's group takes what was previously Riverview, turning a mummified '80s concept into a 2010 destination.Hours: Dinner: Sunday-Thursday, 4-10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 4-11 p.m.
Lunch: Monday-Friday, 12-4 p.m.
Brunch: Sunday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Ambience: Very Good Service: Very Good Reservations: Recommended Credit cards: Accepted
View answers a popular question on Long Island: Can you find a very good restaurant on the water? Yes. Lessing's, the group that dramatically overhauled and improved the landmark Three Village Inn in Stony Brook, does even more with what was previously Riverview, turning a mummified '80s concept into a '10 destination. This property once was part of the 900-acre Vanderbilt estate, Idle Hour. The new restaurant, which emphasizes seafood raw and cooked, looks onto Great South Bay and the Connetquot River. It's an ideal perch for executive chef William Muzio, a veteran of the Montauk's East by Northeast and the departed Pacific East of Amagansett; and sushi chef Kun Chang Chen, from the shuttered Yamato in Oakdale. In addition to losing two syllables, View has dropped the kitsch, streamlined the look - and upped the ante. THE BEST
Plump, meaty crab cakes are livened up with Meyer lemon aioli, mango and avocado; crisp "Thai calamari" with crushed peanuts, cilantro, lime and a sweet-chile glaze. Shrimp seviche, good; shrimp cocktail, better. "Peking duck" tacos have crunch and tenderness, with the diverting taste of hoisin and avocado. Lobster bisque delivers rich flavor; Long Island clam chowder, a bracing, cream-free, near-Manhattan alternative. Sweet coconut-and-kaffir lime broth accents sea-scallop carpaccio. A special of tuna crudo stands out, given subtle heat with a thread of jalapeño. Colorful, harmonious "specialty" rolls top the sushi selections. Sweet heirloom tomatoes surrounding delicate, bread-crusted yellowtail snapper find a foil in tiny squares of balsamic-vinegar gelée. A creamy risotto of Montauk lobster complements pan-roasted sea scallops with citrus beurre blanc. Expert crème brûlée. THE REST
Overcooked stuffed lobster and chicken-shrimp spring rolls; pasty cavatelli with lobster. Tender filet mignon highlights standard surf and turf. Singed strawberry-rhubarb cobbler, frosty yuzu parfait. BOTTOM LINE
Glistening. View, 3 Consuelo Place, Oakdale; 631-589-2694, viewoakdale.com COST $$-$$$ SERVICE Very good AMBIENCE Very good ESSENTIALS
Dinner, Sunday-Thursday, 4-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday to 11 p.m. Lunch, Monday-Friday, noon-4 p.m.; Sunday brunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Reservations suggested. American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa accepted. FOR MORE AMERICANA
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