Great pizza doesn't always have to involve tomatoes. For a change, try one of the many excellent "white" pies which often feature cheese in the starring role.
Here are just four of the many fine white pizzas you'll find on Long Island.
CHEFS OF NEW YORK, 508 Larkfield Rd., East Northport
The 16-inch spinach pizza at this East Northport strip mall spot was celebrated on Food Network's "The Best Thing I Ever Ate," which lauded its creamy, cheesy, garlicky spinach topping. ($17.95)
CENTRO CUCINA, 43C Glen Cove Rd., Greenvale
This winning strip-mall spot offers a 12-inch quattro formaggi (four-cheese) pizza with fior di latte mozzarella, fontina, Pecorino Romano and Gorgonzola topping a fine, thin crust. ($13)
PIZZETTERIA BRUNETTI, 103 Main St., Westhampton Beach
The 12-inch vongole bianca pizza at this authentic Neapolitan-style pizzeria is puffy around the edges, thin in the center. It's topped with nothing more than fresh-shucked local clams, garlic butter and herbs -- and it's outstanding. ($19)
SPUNTINO WINE BAR & ITALIAN TAPAS, 1002 Old Country Rd., Garden City
At this offshoot of a New Jersey restaurant, opt for the funghi pie, a lush, garlicky white pizza with cremini and Portobello mushrooms, fontina and truffle oil. ($12)