City Living: Tottenville
Photo credit: Lane Johnson, Newsday | Tottenville, Staten Island Egger's 7437 Amboy Road
Tottenville is not only the southernmost tip of Staten Island -- it's also the southernmost point in New York state, a novelty that attracts a surprising number of curious urban explorers.
"The fact that we're the last stop on the Staten Island Rail[way] brings in a lot more people than you'd think," said resident Christine Mandile. "They wonder, 'What's down there?'"
What's "down there" are clusters of elaborate Victorian houses, recently built McMansions, mom-and-pop stores and large parks surrounded by the bay -- all complemented by a pace of life similar to that of a lazy seaside New England town.
Contributing to this atmosphere is the area's relative isolation: Because no bridges, tunnels or highways pass through this part of Staten Island, there's little traffic."If you're in Tottenville, you're here for a reason," said local historian and lifelong resident Linda Hauck.
Europeans settled the area -- at the time home to the Unami Indians -- in the 17th century. After ferry routes were established, including the important connection between Tottenville and Perth Amboy, N.J., the area's trade network began to develop.
"Tottenville was 'oyster built,'" Hauck explained. "It was maritime trades and oysters. After they built the first dock, houses were just popping up all over the place."
Today, those older houses lend Tottenville a suburban feel, but one where neighbors don't hide in their cars.
"This is a walking neighborhood," Mandile said. "[In] other parts of Staten Island, you get in your car and go. Here, you get out and walk so you can say hi to everyone."
Find it Tottenville is defined by Page Avenue to the east, the Arthur Kill to the north and west, and the Atlantic Ocean to the south.
To eat A handful of restaurants -- most of them Italian -- line Amboy Road, one of Tottenville's main arteries. A great salumeria, ice cream parlor and bakery can all be found here.
Egger's Ice Cream Parlor For anyone who turns their nose up at all the new-fangled ice cream joints out there, Egger's is a real treat, with more than 30 flavors of homemade ice cream to be enjoyed in malteds, shakes, egg creams, floats and banana splits. Although Egger's has been in business since the 1930s, there's not one sign of kitsch or self-importance here. The shop is often packed with squealing youngsters fiddling around in the bulk candy bins that line the walls. 7437 Amboy Rd. 718-605-9335
Silverio's Bakery & Pastry Shoppe Owner Silverio Espinosa presides over this corner Italian bakery, where he creates flaky apple turnovers, chocolate meltaways, ice-cream cakes and giant, buttery crumb buns. Perched on the baking racks are the shop's most whimsical creations: turtles and alligators fashioned out of shiny loaves of bread. 7358 Amboy Rd. 718-984-5233
Gentile's Gentile's is a neighborhood restaurant with a large menu and all sorts of red sauce-based Italian dishes. The portions are mammoth, so don't be surprised if you need a crane to pick up that eggplant parm hero. 5262-64 Arthur Kill Rd. 718-966-9005
Antonio's Salumeria Giant rice balls -- "always selling like crazy, always fresh," exclaimed one employee -- are accompanied by a variety of oily salads, heros stuffed with fresh mozzarella and inky purple squid tentacles curled up in shallow platters of brine. There's a fridge of homemade pastas and aisles lined with Italian imports. 7319 Amboy Rd. 718-605-6300
To party T hough a few bars are scattered around Tottenville, many people go to local restaurants for a night out drinking. Those looking for a quainter type of "partying" -- in the more traditional sense of the word -- should check out La "Tea" Da.
Fresca's on the Bay Overlooking Perth Amboy, N.J., Fresca's is surprisingly one of Staten Island's only waterfront restaurants. Tanks teeming with lobsters, live music on weekends and outdoor seating make it one of Tottenville's livelier establishments. 225 Ellis St. 718-305-1129
La "Tea" Da This sweet Victorian cottage decked out in pink wallpaper, frilly curtains and dainty tea sets is a little girl's tea party fantasy. Petit fours, scones and jam, fresh fruit and cucumber sandwiches are served during the four-course tea service. The backyard has a miniature cottage for kids to crawl into. 7485 Amboy Rd. 718-303-7074
Rocky Toto's Founded in 1966, Rocky Toto's left New Dorp and set up shop at its current location in 2004. In addition to hearty Italian food, there are cocktails, weekly "wine festivals" (half off all wines) and Friday night karaoke. 7324 Amboy Rd. 718-227-7937
To shop Tottenville's quaint vibe is enhanced by gift shops operating out of older houses, where gregarious owners ask you your name and fill you in on local lore.
Cape House Gallery Staten Island's "premier art gallery" offers two floors of lithographs, bronzes, paintings and sculpture for your browsing pleasure. There's also home decor, custom framing and antique furniture, navigated with the help of an exceptionally friendly staff. 7440 Amboy Rd. 718-317-9158
Scented Cottage In a charming 19th-century house is this New England-style shop, where all sorts of scented candles can be found among antiques, figurines and other small gifts. Check out the Victorian parlor upstairs, with its tiny antique furniture, framed paintings and low ceilings. 7481 Amboy Rd. 718-984-4437
Tottenville Charity Shop Main Street's thrift store is a small shop where you'll find shelves bursting with sweaters, bric-a-brac piled in boxes and a space so tight you'll often find yourself stepping over other customers. The friendly staff will help you out if you're a little overwhelmed. 233 Main St. 718-984-7439
To do Numerous Victorian structures line the leafy streets of Tottenville, lending it a wonderful old-time feel -- some homes even have peacocks roaming around their porches. Though its glory days are in the past, Main Street has some interesting attractions, such as the Masonic Temple and the shuttered old Stadium Theater. Other notable buildings include the restored home at 88 Bentley St. and the Biddle House at 70 Satterlee St.
Conference House & Park The Conference House is known for the 1776 peace conference that took place there; guests included such luminaries as Ben Franklin and John Adams. Today, the brick mansion built in 1680 is open for tours ($2 adults, $1 children). Not far from the house is a gazebo overlooking the water, where clambakes are held in the summer. The surrounding park spreads out along most of Tottenville's shores; look out for lots of excited geese. 7455 Hylan Blvd. 718-984-6046
Tottenville Pool It's actually two pools: The first is 75 feet long and 3 1/2 feet deep; the other is a kiddie pool with a depth of only 1 1/2 feet. Together they can hold 750 splashing kids. If anyone is hungry, there are picnic tables where you can eat. 6960 Hylan Blvd. 718-356-8242
Bethel United Methodist Church Originally built in 1840, the Bethel United Methodist Church had to be reconstructed 26 years later, after being destroyed by a fire. In the graveyard out back, headstones stand at awkward angles, a result of thick tree roots erupting beneath them. A good part of the yard is shielded by dark, leafy branches. 7033 Amboy Rd. 718-984-1277
Real estate Because Tottenville's older houses are situated on larger than average lots, there's been a push to take them down and erect grander structures in their places.Some residents complain that these developments are spoiling the area's open and friendly atmosphere.
"It used to be that you could sit in your backyard with your hammock and your neighbors and have a great time," said resident Linda Hauck. "Now people move in, they put up their fences and you never see them."
A few optimistic residents maintain that the new structures make Tottenville's housing options more diverse.
Here's a sampling of what living in the area will currently cost you:
To rent $650 for a studio condo (Hylan Boulevard at Sprague Avenue) $750 for a one-bedroom apartment $800 for a one-bedroom on a dead-end block $1,000 for a studio with pool access (Winding Woods Loop at Sprague Avenue) $1,700 for a two-bedroom house close to the water with a yard and a shed $1,950 for a three-bedroom, two-and-a-half bathroom townhouse (Sandy Lane at Sprague Avenue) $2,400 for a three-bedroom Victorian house near the water (175 Ellis St. at Arthur Kill Road) $3,500 for a 4,300-square-foot, three-bedroom house (Parker Street at Amboy Road)
To buy $399,000 for a three-bedroom townhouse (Sandy Lane at Sprague Avenue) $460,000 for a townhouse with three bathrooms (3139 Victory Boulevard) $585,000 for a three-bedroom, two-bathroom, 19th-century Victorian house (Main Street at Craig Avenue) $999,000 for a four-bedroom, three-bathroom Victorian house
The buzz As the last stop on the Staten Island Railway, Tottenville receives many visitors.
"You have the day off, and what do you do? You get on the train and go down to Tottenville," said local historian Linda Hauck. "My friend lives near the train station and she sees people getting out all the time with maps and knapsacks, looking totally lost."
Pam Sindle, owner of the Scented Cottage, has noticed the same phenomenon.
"We've had guests from Germany, Norway [and] England who somehow ended up here," she said. "They just wander right in."
Hauck and other residents would love to see their neighborhood develop into an area that attracts all kinds of visitors.
"Tottenville just has so much untapped potential: a trolley car, walking tours, bed and breakfasts," Hauck said. "It would be fantastic for out-of-towners and a great day trip for New Yorkers looking to get out of the city."
Sindle added, "It's a little piece of New England, right in the city -- very appealing."
Unfortunately, getting things to that point is a slow process.
"We want our historic buildings, charm and quaintness to be recognized and appreciated," Hauck said. "Hopefully, the powers that be in Manhattan offices will start to feel the same way."
Q&A with Linda Hauck Linda Hauck, a lifelong resident, is the founder of the Tottenville Historic Society, which together with the Preservation League, will publish a book on Tottenville's history in 2008.
What led to the creation of the Tottenville Historic Society? I was always interested in the area's history -- in grammar school I'd think, where can I read about the history of my town? A few years ago, there was an older gentleman that I kept meaning to sit and talk with, but he passed away before I got a chance. That's when I realized that our history needed to be preserved before it was too late. So I quit my day job, and here we are.
What challenges do the neighborhood face? It's tough for businesses to stay afloat here. Main Street's got a lot of problems -- no parking and stiff competition's just within driving distance. Everyone says, 'When a shop opens on Main Street, it won't be long until it closes.' It's too bad -- Main Street used to be called 'Quality Row', because it was where all the sea captains built their beautiful homes.
What changes do you foresee? Tottenville residents already have a lot of neighborhood pride, but with everyone getting involved in the area's history, we hope to see a stronger sense of community. It will be an area that we'll be even more proud to welcome others into.
The basics Library: NYPL Tottenville Branch, 7430 Amboy Rd. Transportation: Train: Staten Island Railway to Nassau, Atlantic, TottenvilleBus: S59, 78, 74, 84; X22 Crime: Tottenville is covered by the 123rd Precinct (116 Main St.), which includes the southernmost third of Staten Island. The precinct reported one murder, two rapes, 14 robberies and 70 burglaries so far this year. For the same period last year, there was one murder, no rapes, 17 robberies and 79 burglaries. Schools: Tottenville High School, IS 34, PS 1, PS 6
comments