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Ginza in Massapequa: First bites

Sushi and sashimi platter at Ginza in Massapequa.

Sushi and sashimi platter at Ginza in Massapequa. (Apr. 2012) (Credit: Newsday/Peter M. Gianotti)

Ginza stands out near the Sunrise Mall like Bill Murray in "Lost in Translation." It's very different ... and very good.

Dramatic outside and inside, the newcomer offers a bold design matched by the selection of seafood, some from Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market. The raw fish is excellent. And a lot of the cooked fare is sharp, too.

It's all done with flair to spare, lighting up a sleepy area for dining out.

Try the sushi and sashimi, which may include great o-toro and chu-toro tuna, sweet shrimp, delicate scallops, Kumamoto oysters and pink salmon. Enjoy spicy tuna gyoza, Kobe beef meatballs and an array of colorful "chef special rolls." Grilled wild Pacific salmon with blood-orange miso is recommended, too.

There also are plenty of more familiar dishes, from tempuras to teriyakis.

Prices range from moderate to expensive. The Tsukiji selections are $38 to $50. But appetizers are in the $5 to $15 range; and main courses generally are in the $20s.

Consider the prices as including a cover charge for the show.

Ginza, 45 Carmans Rd., Massapequa; 516-882-9688.

A sushi-and-sashimi combo at Ginza.

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