The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene
BloggersPeter Gianotti Erica Marcus Joan Reminick Marjorie Robins
In an ongoing search to find Long Island’s best restaurant values, restaurant critic Joan Reminick has plowed through more pad thai, penne ala vodka and pulled pork than she cares to admit. Born and raised in Brooklyn, Joan grew up in a happy home whose only shortcomings were culinary. After a childhood of cooked-to-leather steaks, canned peas and Ore Ida fries, she made it a personal mission to seek out food that’s fresh, lively and carefully prepared. Married to her teen sweetheart, she received a B.A. from Brooklyn College and an M.S. from Hofstra University and taught English and Humanities in a Long Island high school for several years. When her two children were born, she embarked on a writing career and has had both fiction and nonfiction works published in national magazines. She also edited the Zagat Survey of Long Island Restaurants and wrote the book “Exploring Long Island with Newsday.” In addition to doing weekly “Cheap Eats” restaurant reviews, Joan hunts down restaurant news items and writes restaurant-related articles. These days, her motto is: making Long Island a better place to eat, one blog entry at a time.
On days like this one, when it’s all you can do to stop your teeth from chattering, there’s culinary relief at three Long Island eateries — each a specialist in a single kind of comfort food.
In Mineola, you’ll find Mama Soup, situated in the ground floor of an office building. Here, a soup bar features 28 varieties, which can be eaten on premises or packed to go. Highly recommended:...Read more »
Heard the forecast?
Yes, while they're handing out Oscars in Hollywood, Katy Perry and John Mayer stay split, and Justin Bieber's sobriety walk becomes a new dance, six to eight inches of snow are expected to fall on Long Island.
Which is why, once more, we can hardly wait till spring. Now, it's under the three-week mark.
And the appetite turns to asparagus and peas, ramps and...Read more »
Huge, handsome and hip, That Meetball Place in Patchogue is a study in wood, brick and iron. High ceilings, a high decibel level and a high-top communal table amp up the vibe. Even the name of the place is a play on words: You go there to meet, have a ball and eat meatballs. All kinds, served in any number of ways.
On a recent evening, when the place reverberated with loud music and shouted...Read more »
In this week’s Newsday, The Trattoria in St. James vaults into the top tier of Long Island’s Italian restaurants. In November, Eric Lomando sold the casual BYO place (formerly called Kitchen A Trattoria) to his chef, Steven Gallagher. Now, writes Peter M. Gianotti, the place is even better. Gallagher “changes the menu daily. But the results are invariably the same … creative, genuine, fairly...Read more »
Ben Durham has been appointed executive chef of Prime American Kitchen & Bar in Huntington.
Durham was, until September, executive chef at Melville’s Four Food Studio. He came aboard Prime in November, after the departure of executive chef Gregg Lauletta (who earned three stars from Newsday in 2012).
With multiple dining rooms and outdoor decks, Prime sprawls along the waterfront...Read more »
Let the sushi wars begin.
Here’s the latest shot: Nisen One Ten, the eagerly awaited Melville branch of the Japanese-fusion group, has completed a major renovation and opened in the former home of Barolo.
Any trace of that long-standing, sedate Italian trattoria has been obliterated by the snazzy new sushi restaurant whose decor is an absolutely-of-the-moment blend of industrial chic...Read more »
Doing justice to those quintessential American comfort classics, macaroni and cheese and the melted cheese sandwich, is the new Mac & Melts in Garden City. This is the kind of food that picks up your mood on a bad day — oozy, gooey, melty, delicious fare.
On a recent visit, a Southwestern mac and cheese ($6.50 small; $10.75 large), served in a cast iron skillet, proved both...Read more »
What could be more welcome this frigid winter than a restaurant named Bahama Breeze? The first New York branch of an Orlando-based chain, under the umbrella of Darden Restaurants, just opened in a sprawling new building at Smith Haven Mall in Lake Grove, fronting Middle Country Road.
I took a quick peek inside, making note of the island-style decor featuring potted palms and live tropical...Read more »
Ko Gu Ryo in Commack has closed, joining the long line of Korean restaurants to have come and gone from this peaked-roof freestanding building at 1087 Jericho Tpke.
The restaurant, which opened about a year ago, received a one-and-a-half star review. While several dishes were uneven, the place garnered praise for its “first-rate” gopdal bibimpap, the stone pot Korean classic made with ground...Read more »
I almost feel sorry for the pizzeria serving white clam pizza when I walk in the door.
I grew up with the Platonic Ideal of the clam pie, the one at Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria Napoletana in New Haven, Conn. I still make regular visits. The only worthwhile local iteration I’ve come across since then has been the supernal vongole pie at Westhampton Beach's Pizzetteria Brunetti, made with fresh-shucked...Read more »