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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

Long Island's 10 best seafood restaurants

The grilled octopus at Kyma Restaurant in Roslyn.

(Credit: Yana Paskova)

Newsday's "Eat Here Now," top-100 restaurant series continues this week with the 10 best seafood houses.

You put up with a lot of limp fried calamari and overcooked, farmed salmon before making the big catch. These 10 make up for all the overdone broiled seafood platters and stuffed flounders.

The 2014 list includes places as different from each other as the casual restaurant and market, ...

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New Gurney's in Montauk: First bites

Tuna tartare tacos with soy-sauce "pearls" are served

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

The checks still refer to The Sea Grille and Cafe Monte. But, except for the ocean view and the resort's footprint, they're all that remain of the decades-old dining experience at Gurney's Inn.

Actually, Gurney's Inn is history, too. Under new ownership, it's officially known as Gurney's Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa. Nautical kitsch has gone overboard in favor of a sleek, contemporary...

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Swallow in Huntington adds 64 seats

Angus beef sliders at Swallow in Huntington.

(Credit: Jesse Newman)

Swallow has gobbled up the space next door.

The New American, small-plates specialist in downtown Huntington has completed its expansion into the adjoining space, formerly a vintage clothing store. The restaurant now includes 20 seats and a full bar in the original dining area, as well as 64 in the new one, said general manager David Malinowski.

Swallow, which opened in 2010, also operates...

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New chef at Sole East in Montauk

Guests enjoy Sole East in Montauk. (June 27,

(Credit: Jenna Israel)

Marlon Rambaran, who received his training under chefs including Daniel Boulud and Georges Perrier, is the new chef at The Backyard Restaurant at Sole East in Montauk.

The garden restaurant serves dishes such as scallop ceviche, tuna tartare, pulled pork "banh mi" style, mussels and fries, stuffed lobster, a lobster roll slider, and grilled steak and seafood. Desserts include clafoutis with...

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Duryea's, Montauk landmark, is sold

Lunch on the deck with a view of

(Credit: Ellen Watson)

It's the last season for lobster rolls at Duryea's in Montauk.

Duryea's Lobster Deck, a local landmark some would say is almost as well known as the lighthouse, has been sold.

Perry B. Duryea III said Thursday he would continue to manage the business through 2014, "as it has been functioning for the last 50-odd years."

He added that a "high-end seafood restaurant" is expected to...

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Authentic Mexican tacos in Montauk

La Brisa is the Montauk offshoot of the

(Credit: Handout)

The offshoot of a downtown Manhattan taqueria, Tacombi at Fonda Nolita, is now turning out tacos and more in downtown Montauk. Its East End name is La Brisa, and it occupies the former digs of La Bodega, a space whose curved outer walls are lined with expansive windows.

Tortillas are made on premises using an imported Mexican tortilla machine. In the morning, you’ll find such dishes as chilaquiles...

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The Riverhead Project: Chef changes

Roy Wohlars, executive chef at South Edison restaurant

(Credit: Doug Young)

Greg Ling, who had been executive chef at the Riverhead Project since it opened in May 2011 (and earned three stars from Newsday's Peter Gianotti), has left the restaurant. Taking over for Ling is Roy Wohlars who was, until recently, executive chef at South Edison in Montauk. According to owner Dennis McDermott, Wohlars will introduce a new seafood-focused menu in the next few weeks.

When...

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Montauk's Navy Beach opens Friday, summer to follow

Truly beachfront: Enjoy the seafood specialities (or buttermilk

(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

Montauk's Navy Beach, one of Long Island's most summery restaurants and night spots, reopens for the warm-weather season on  Friday.

The casual, beachside eatery stands out for its local clam-and-corn chowder, conch fritters, lobster salad, and buttermilk-fried chicken with Cheddar cornbread and house-made slaw.

New this season are a series of cocktails based on the gin-and-tonic...

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La Bodega in Montauk: Case of the missing mofongo

La Bodega, Montauk

(Credit: Handout/Angelo Cordero)

In a move that seems hard to explain, La Bodega in Montauk has removed from its menu what appeared to be two of its top items.

Gone is its avocado toast — made with mashed avocado with honey and dried red pepper on Puerto Rican bread — which I had liked and written about just two weeks ago. Also missing is mofongo, a Latin American dish made with mashed plantains, garlic and pork, shrimp or...

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Four for the Fourth: Celebrating lobster rolls

Lobster roll is served at Fishbar Restaurant in

(Credit: Newsday Peter Gianotti)

There are a lot of way to fuel the festivities on the Fourth of July. But they all don't have to be on the grill.

So, let us praise lobster rolls. Here's a quartet of East End sparklers.

At fishbar on the lake in Montauk, the lobster roll comes with a pretty water view. A lettuce leaf separates the tender lobster meat from the bun. A pickle cuts the richness. Very good.

SALT Waterfront...

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