La Casa Latina

November 15, 2011 6:42 PM

With details large and small, La Casa Latina declares its swagger. The tip-offs come early on: comfortable, refined surroundings. Crusty, hard-to-resist sourdough rolls. Potent, pretty sangria dotted with fat frozen blueberries. Food served off rolling carts. The kitchen is led by executive chef-owner Roberto Herrera who is also head chef at Bryant & Cooper Steak House in Roslyn, dividing his time between both spots. His kitchen's chops show in the presentation of fish tacos: three house-made soft corn tortillas enfolding neatly fried tilapia topped with chipotle salsa, garnished with micro greens, lined up in a clever metal holder. Herrera knows the rustic corn, cheese and bean pupusas (stuffed corncakes) of his native El Salvador need nothing fancier than the traditional accompaniments of slaw and salsa.