New York real estate: Great Kills, Staten Island
Photo credit: Phil S. Kropoth, Phil S. Kropoth | Atrium Cinemas, 680 Arthur Kill Rd. Originally shot on August 31, 2008 and published in the City Living section of amNewYork on September 4, 2008.
Photos
No one really uses the word "love" when they describe their feelings toward Great Kills, Staten Island. In fact, most residents speak with a blend of reservation and cautious optimism that it's almost disarming at first. It's not a dangerous place or a ghost town, but then again, it's no Shangri-La, they say. It's middle-class, medium sized, centrally located and even-keeled, through and through. What you see is what you get in Great Kills and the people that live here like it just fine.
Make no mistake, Great Kills is not without its charms and the neighborly allure is readily recognizable with just a short walk through town. Charlie Santa, who rounded a corner and happened upon a lost reporter, was quick to offer directions and a friendly chat.
"Great Kills is really nice. It's not the greatest, but it's definitely one of the better places to live on Staten Island," Santa said, "and it has been for some time."
Like most Staten Island neighborhoods, Great Kills' population exploded in the late 1960s, right after the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge was built. Property values quickly doubled as families moved to State Island from Brooklyn in search of a quieter, suburban life.
Though this new-found attention brought commerce and stability to Great Kills, the area never became a land of plenty or even a specific destination. It was just a quaint and convenient place to settle -- a sort of happy accident.
Now there are primarily two types of people who live here. They are either entrenched families from that initial population boom, or the newly married couples from other parts of Staten Island.
"It's a lot of younger people; in fact, I just sold a few this year to some couples that just got married," said Trudy Galli, a real estate agent. "It's also families with kids and a lot of people who just sold houses in Brooklyn. It's because you get more for your money here than in Brooklyn and Manhattan."
Ultimately, transportation is one of the biggest draws to the area. With 16 buses embarking from the Eltingville Transit Center and the express train to the Staten Island Ferry running out of Great Kills Station, the convenience of this neighborhood is paramount.
The commercial situation, though stable, is a strange mixture of time-tested businesses and seemingly perpetually empty storefronts. There are many restaurants and a reasonable number of places to shop or relax, but a few businesses have found it exceedingly difficult to stay put.
"Just look down Amboy Road," said Santa, "Stores keep coming in then going out of business and closing up shop. It's unfortunate and it makes the area look dilapidated."
But that is easily the exception rather than the rule as plenty of successful families and businesses continue to move into Great Kills.
"Great Kills is a nice area but it's not the absolute nicest on Staten Island," said Galli. "There are certainly nicer areas and worse areas but Great Kills is sort of in the middle in a good way."
Find it
Great Kills is bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the south, Armstrong Avenue on the west, Arthur Kill Road on the north and Greaves and Fieldway avenues on the east.
The basics
Transportation: Great Kills has some of the best transportation options on Staten Island despite its south shore seclusion. Great Kills Station on the Staten Island Rail Road is right in the center of the neighborhood and it boasts rush hour express service to the St. George Ferry. A two-minute drive west of Great Kills is the Eltingville Transit Center, home to the S55, 56, 59, 74, 79, 84 and 89 buses and the X1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15, 17 and 31 express buses. The S54 swings past the train station, too.
Police Station: The 122nd Precinct covers all of the mid-island neighborhoods including Great Kills. With 27 square miles under its jurisdiction, the one-two-two is the largest precinct geographically in the city.
Crime Stats: In 2007, there were three murders, nine rapes, 295 burglaries, 87 felony assaults and 513 grand larcenies in the 122nd Precinct.
Schools: P.S. 053 Bay Terrace, 330 Durant Ave., 718-987-8020; I.S. 24 Myra S. Barnes Intermediate School, 225 Cleveland Ave., 718-356-4200; P.S. 32 Giffords School, 32 Elverton Ave., 718-984-1688.
Libraries: Great Kills Branch of the New York Public Library, 56 Giffords Ln., 718-984-6670
Post offices: 1 Nelson Ave., 800-ASK-USPS
Highlight: Historic Richmond Town -- Though it's not technically Great Kills, it's not technically from this era either. Historic Richmond Town is a museum complex and restoration preserved to recreate life on Staten Island circa 1700 -- before the United States was even a glimmer in the eyes of its founders. The site covers about 100 acres or several square blocks closed off to cars to protect its 15 original colonial buildings. There are also guided tours, a museum, civil war reenactments and role-playing villagers throughout the summer to complete the colonial experience. 441 Clarke Ave., 718-351-1611
To eat
If there's one thing Great Kills does well, it's food. Though it seems like the majority of restaurants are Italian or American, there is a pretty decent number of alternatives usually just a short walk away.
La Candela Espanola -- This is one of the best places on the South Shore if not the whole island to get Mexican and Spanish food. Chicken, beef, pork and veal come in all the classic incarnations and there is a huge seafood selection on the menu to boot. What's so special about this place? Sangria. 3921 Amboy Rd., 718-356-8798
Blin -- Speeding down Hylan Boulevard, it's easy to miss Blin's small but colorful awning. But inside, it's a quaint and comfy place to enjoy Mediterranean and Eastern European cuisine. Chilean sea bass with saffron rice, crab meat crusted halibut with summer succotash and Staten Island blues steak with black coffee rub are a few of the unique main course options at Blin. 4125 Hylan Blvd., 718-608-8557
Marina Café -- Maryland crab-stuffed sole, swordfish rabe or a whole live Maine lobster round out a short, but scrumptious entree menu. And addition to the great food, the ambiance is a big reason to dine at the Marina Café, whether you're eating inside or out by the harbor. Also, a guy with an accordion goes table to table and will play whatever you want. 154 Mansion Ave., 718-967-3077
Aka Sushi -- Though sushi places seem a dime a dozen these days, Great Kills is home to one of the tastiest in the affordable column. Sushi and sashimi a la carte ranges from $1.75 to $4 and rolls are up to $12. The best deal by far though is the lunch special of three rolls, soup and salad for $11. 4342 Amboy Rd., 718-608-8981
Alfonso's Bakery -- This is a small Italian desert shop with a friendly staff and one of the best cannolis in New York. Huge selections of tasty pastry and countless custom cakes lie in wait beneath Alfonso's glass displays. 4366 Amboy Rd., 718-884-8011
To shop:
Great Kills isn't the be-all-end-all of shopping but it certainly has all the necessities plus a modest selection of unique and attractive shops along Hylan Boulevard, Amboy Road, and a few on Arthur Kill Road.
Eltingville Shopping Center -- Just west of Great Kills is the neighborhood of Eltingville, all but indistinguishable from Great Kills and this major strip mall's namesake. There are pharmacies, diners, bakeries, 99-cent stores, a hardware store and a bounty of fast food and bagel joints. It's not the prettiest, but it sure is convenient. Amboy Road and Armstrong Avenue.
R + L Clocks -- Sure, it's just a clock store, but perhaps it's time for you to visit a clock store. Beyond the modest storefront lies a huge selection of classy time-keeping devices. Repairs and restorations are their true stock in trade. 21 Nelson Ave., 718-984-1435
Castellano's House of Music -- Castellano's has four walls of gorgeous guitars, a nice selection of effects pedals and much more. They also provide music lessons, are extremely personable and helpful with sales, and they sell any and every instrument you don't see in the store. 4016 Hylan Blvd., 718-982-8548
To play:
Great Kills has a reasonable amount of activities thanks to its great accessibility by both car and bus. Some complain that there isn't much for kids to do, but it's there if you look hard enough (or drive far enough).
KJ's Ale House -- Touted as the busiest place on the South Shore since the early 1930s, KJ's is one of the oldest and most popular bars on Staten Island. It serves as one of the biggest places to socialize in Great Kills and Saturday nights are usually standing room only. A full service bar, beer on tap and infamous house drinks such as the Red Vixen complement the swanky horseshoe countertop and pleasant hosts. 18 Nelson, Ave., 718-605-6585
Illusions Nightclub -- This is probably the island's most well know nightclub, though the clientele tend to be in their early 20s most nights. It's got a bar the length of the room, a VIP area and a 15- by 25-foot dance floor. They feature live freestyle rap on Thursdays, live do-wop on Fridays, hip-hop Saturdays and karaoke Sundays. 3995 Amboy Rd., 718-948-1015
Atrium Cinemas -- The Atrium, as it's known to locals, is a big draw, especially among Great Kills teenagers. Built in an old department store, the theater has nine screens in slightly larger than average theaters that always play the latest flicks. It's also shockingly clean for a movie theater. 680 Arthur Kill Rd.
La Tourette Golf Course -- La Tourette, just to the north of Great Kills, has eighteen holes on a par 72 course. The grounds are well kept and almost too nice to be owned by the city, with a charming 170-year-old brick clubhouse. 1001 Richmond Hill Rd., 718-351-1889
Great Kills Park -- Opened in 1949, Great Kills Park is a peninsula with a barrier ocean beach and a gorgeous harbor. There are great nature walks highlighting the flora and fauna, swimming, fishing, boating and, of all things, a neat model airplane field. Buffalo St. off Hylan Blvd., 718-354-4500
Q & A with John Chambers:
John Chambers, self-proclaimed computer nerd and resident of Great Kills for two years, like many, has mixed feelings about the South Shore. Though strong on essentials such as transportation and dining, he describes it as an area with obvious shortcomings but an overall great place to start a life in New York.
Q: What puts the "great" in Great Kills?
A: It's quaint, it's quiet, and you get everything you need here. And the transportation is great. The trains go express from Great Kills to the ferry, which is great for anyone who works in Manhattan. Forty-five minutes from downtown is definitely a perk of living here.
Q: Is there anything particularly unique about the area?
A: Well, in the summer, there are a lot of biker conventions and old car shows that bring people in from all over the city and outside it too. I think it's because there are a lot of big parking lots and Great Kills is pretty easy to get to from anywhere.
Q: What is Great Kills missing?
A: Like I said, there are a lot of older kids. I think we need some more kid-friendly activities in the area since they end up wandering the streets at night looking for something to do. I mean, that's what I used to do when I was their age too, but there's so many of them.
Q: So why live here?
A: For a new couple that's starting a family, it's a pleasant community. There's good access, good transportation, and it's a bit like Brooklyn -- just a good start up area.
Real estate:
Great Kills architecture displays an eclectic mix of styles and sizes. Most of its residents are primarily middle- to lower middle-income workers. Most are families with older kids who relocated from Brooklyn or young Staten Island couples looking to start out on their own. Lots are large, renting is rare and single-family homes typically go for about $450,000.
To Buy:
26 Stern Ct. -- Fully attached tri-level condo with a garage, two bedrooms and 1½ bath: $339,000
418 Colon Ave. -- Single-family (three bedroom, two bath) house with a deck, full yard with a pool and formal dining room: $419,000
115 Abingdon Ave. -- Single-family center hall colonial (two bedroom, three bath) with a back and side yard, billiard room and fireplace: $789,900
18 Rhett Ave. -- Two-family detached home (five bedroom, four bath) with an extra large yard, foyer and two-car garage: $925,000
Recently sold:
46 Filipe Ln. -- Single-family home built in 1987 (one bedroom, one bath) with 748 sq. ft.: $235,000
11 Harbor Ct. -- Single-family semi-detached home built in 1987 (three bedroom, three bath): $598,000
325 Armstrong Ave. -- Single-family fully-detached home (four bedroom, 3.5 bathroom) built in 1950 with large front and back yard: $814,600
Contact: Trudy Galli of Fillmore Real Estate, 718-351-3200
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