Canz-a-Citi Roadhouse

1610 Old Country Rd. Westbury, NY 516-227-2269

Canz, Westbury

(Credit: Joan Reminick)

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Critic rating: 1.5

User rating:
3
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Type: American, Beer, Burgers, Pub, Sports bar, Karaoke/Open jams, Nightspot Special features: Bar scene, Happy hour Price range: $$ (Moderate) Description:

About 100 different kinds of beer are served in this industrial-looking spot, where tank-top-attired waitresses serve surprisingly good burgers and bar food to the sound of earsplitting music. However, lest you think it’s your server’s garb that is the source of this venue’s name, in reality the title hails from the structure (inside and out) appearing to be construction from various empty aluminum drink cans.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m.: Daily. Ambience: Fair Service: Fair Credit cards: Accepted Accessibility: Restrooms large but not equipped
A western burger is served at Canz Restaurant

A western burger is served at Canz Restaurant and Bar on Old Country Road in Westbury. (Nov. 7, 2009) (Credit: Michael E. Ach)

1.5

A big game blares from at least 10 TVs while well-endowed "Canz girlz" in tank tops and short-shorts ferry food and drinks about. In a space decorated with hubcaps and crushed beer cans, the roar of the crowd competes with the amped-up sound system. At a table near me, a guy slurps "jungle juice" (a potent rum-vodka-fruit drink meant for at least two) out of a fishbowl.

Whatever am I doing here? More crucially, what is chef Vincent Pomara (who cooked at the former Louis XVI in Patchogue) doing here? Trying, it would seem, to give pub grub a good name by preparing virtually everything from scratch - no canz, no freezerz.

CAN DO

I'm thankful for Pomara's sprightly organic greens with green beans and red onions in a roasted shallot-sherry vinaigrette. A breadcrumb-topped casserole of mac and cheese offers down-home comfort. "Wingz" really fly, whether ordered medium or hot.

I'm won over by an herbal, citrusy grilled chicken sandwich with lemon garlic mayo and arugula, as well as a juicy, smoky grilled Western burger ignited by a topping of roasted serrano and green chiles, red onion and Cheddar. Hand-cut fries, both regular and sweet potato, are irresistible. Ribs, while not pit-smoked, are tender, savory, judiciously glazed with a house-made barbecue sauce.

CAN IT

Leaden fried mac 'n cheese dumplings with cheese sauce, mini corn dogs in a too-sweet batter and a dry, overcooked Greek lamb burger need to be revised or excised. So, too, an otherwise fine combo of grilled pinwheel sausage, sauteed broccoli rabe and roasted peppers, which doesn't belong in a tortilla wrap with balsamic vinegar sauce.

A pity the house-made "king ding" is undermined by dry chocolate cake. But it beats the fried Twinkie, which tastes exactly the way it sounds.

BOTTOM LINE

The impressive list of beers — in canz, bottlez and on tap — may draw in serious brew-philes. Yet even they may have issues with the restaurant’s dual identity: Gastro pub or frat party? Perhaps it’s just a little of both.

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Where

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Canz-a-Citi Roadhouse 1610 Old Country Rd., Westbury

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