The Fishery (East Rockaway)

Persistent cool, drizzly weather leaves me imagining how lovely it must be eating out on the deck of The Fishery. Yet, even indoors, I appreciate the view of boats bobbing in the basin off East Rockaway Inlet.

Good thing this is one seafood restaurant where the food doesn't take a backseat to the view. I note how crowded the attractive tiled barroom is, and there's virtually no vista there whatsoever.

GOOD CATCH: Four of us go to town on the generous chilled raw bar platter for two. At its center is a whole Maine lobster, slightly warm and marine-sweet, surrounded by quartets of cooked jumbo shrimp, raw oysters, littlenecks and cherrystones, all sparkling fresh.

A sampling of four fine chowders is presented in tiny cups: a rich New England, a hearty Manhattan, a chunky fisherman's chowder and a sherry-laced lobster bisque.

I can't think of a more refreshing warm weather dish than the chilled seafood Cobb salad. I'm able to have blue cheese substituted for Cheddar in a bowl piled with cool scallops, shrimp, shredded Maryland crab, avocado, red onion and cherry tomatoes.

In addition to a conventional lobster roll, The Fishery offers a hot one - warm chunks of lobster meat on a grilled hot dog bun with drawn butter; it's simple and ideal. A true indulgence is a special of seafood potpie, capped with puff pastry and filled with shrimp, scallops and lobster in a rich sauce with a tinge of sherry.

There's more opulence in warm bread pudding with cranberries and chocolate chips and in the perilously rich cheesecake, both finales plated with fresh whipped cream.

GO FISH: Finely shredded Maryland crab meat makes for a tight-textured crab cake. And a broiled combo features bread-y baked clams plus paprika-dusted shrimp, scallops and flounder with heavily battered sweet potato fries and broccoli. So boring, so 1970s.

BOTTOM LINE: Small shortcomings aside, this is one you'll want to reel in.

Lobster roll: At this seaside fish house with outdoor seating, there are two varieties, each made with the meat of one lobster. The cold roll features lobster salad made to order with a dressing of mayo, Old Bay seasoning, lemon, chives and parsley. The hot roll features lobster meat quickly warmed with a touch of drawn butter that's drizzled on the bun and also served on the side. Each costs $16.95 and comes with coleslaw and fries. The bottom line? The hot lobster roll may look small, but it's a purist's dream - just lobster and a little butter. The cold one is good, too.

Rock music: Live bands take the stage from 10 p.m.-1 a.m. every Friday and Saturday.