Insignia Prime Steak and Sushi

Insignia swaggers into town with headliner confidence and showstopping cost. All that's missing is the casino. Turning a corner of Nesconset Highway into an offshoot of Las Vegas Boulevard demands ambition-plus. For restaurateur-as-impresario Anthony Scotto, this brassy palace of protein known as Insignia completes a trifecta. He's now two stars short of Eisenhower and MacArthur combined. The scale of Insignia makes his Rare650 in Syosset and Blackstone Steakhouse in Melville look like monasteries and sound like cloisters. -- Peter M. Gianotti

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