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AUTO DOC: What to do when paint bubbles on the hood?

Junior Damato | Ask the Auto Doc

March 28, 2008

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DEAR DOCTOR: I own a 2003 Ford Explorer with more than 100,000 miles. The paint on the hood is bubbling in spots. The dealership told me that unless it rusted through the metal, the repair would not be covered by Ford. A body shop told me it was an aluminum hood and, if repaired, the problem would most likely happen again. What course of action do you recommend?

John

DEAR JOHN: The condition is called paint delamination. It is caused by a poor base paint adhesion. If the base and prime coating are redone properly, then the finish coat will stay intact.

DEAR DOCTOR: The time is near for the timing belt replacement on our car. Is it wise to replace the water pump at the same time? And what is the maximum number of miles that can be on the odometer of a new car at the time of purchase?

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Vincent

DEAR VINCENT: The application of timing belts and water pumps are different. If the water pump bearing is smooth and there are no signs of leaks, we will not advise replacement. However, on some Volkswagen four-cylinders we recommend the water pump replacement because of the high plastic impeller failure rate. There is no set limit on odometer mileage for a car that is being sold as new. The vehicle warranty starts at the time of purchase, and the mileage can be extended and covered by the dealer in writing.

DEAR DOCTOR: Sometimes when I shut off the ignition to my 2000 GMC Jimmy, the key remains stuck. I must jiggle it or hit the automatic shifter forward. This problem first occurred right after I changed the automatic transmission fluid. The mechanic tells me there is no connection. I have tried changing keys and spraying a little WD40 in the ignition, as the mechanic suggested, to no avail. What can be the problem? Arthur

DEAR ARTHUR: The first thing to check is the adjustment on the transmission interlock cable or rod going up to the steering column. A faulty ignition key cylinder could also be causing the problem.

DEAR DOCTOR: I inherited my great-grandmother's Porsche 912, which has significant sentimental value. There is not much chance I'll be able to restore it for a few years. I'll need to move the car to a rented indoor storage, which is costly - but I'll do it if you think the car is salvageable. It's been stored outdoors under a tarp for five years and has not run or been turned over in 10 years. There is some surface corrosion, as well as aging and water damage on the interior.

Bryan

DEAR BRYAN: Before you spend any money on storage or restoration, you must have the Porsche evaluated by a professional to determine whether it's worth the big investment over the long haul. I highly recommend you get two expert opinions.

DEAR DOCTOR: I have a 2003 Dodge Caravan with approximately 50,000 miles on it, all of which is "stop and go" mileage. A couple of months ago, I found that every time I come to a stop or slow down in heavy traffic, I'd feel and hear a sort of jolt/buck/thump/clunk. It only happens when I apply the brakes. Could it be the brakes or the transmission (although the car seems to shift properly)?

Violet

DEAR VIOLET: The problem is quite possibly transmission-related. Chrysler transmissions have some problems with older ones not properly downshifting when coming to a stop. The repair can involve a simple transmission computer reflash or internal shift solenoid update.

DEAR DOCTOR: I have a 2004 I35 Infiniti that had 49,000 miles on it when I bought it. The car pinged, and I was told to use high-octane gasoline, which I did, using 93 octane. The car still pings between 1,800 and 2,400 rpm on acceleration. But I can drive it to work and back, which is mostly all parkway, with no pinging. If I shut the car off for five or 10 minutes after the commute, then drive the car locally, it starts pinging.

Frank

DEAR FRANK: There are no technical service bulletins on your complaint. Engine ping happens when gas explodes in the cylinder and does not burn. Have a technician road test the Infiniti with a vacuum gauge connected to the EGR valve. You must use the automaker's recommended octane fuel in the I35. The primary causes of pinging are the engine running hot, a lean fuel mixture, ignition timing out of specifications, EGR valve not functioning and/or the EGR ports blocked with carbon.

Junior Damato is an accredited master auto technician, radio host and writer for Motor Matters who runs a 10-bay garage. Send questions to Junior Damato, c/o Special Sections, Newsday, 235 Pinelawn Rd., Melville, NY 11747-4250, or e-mail info@motormatters.biz