Tsampa |
|
| 212 E. Ninth St. | |
| Manhattan, NY 10003-7503 | |
| 212-614-3226 | |
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Hours:
Mon-Sun: dinner | |
This is not surprising, given that Tsampa is surely the only Tibetan restaurant in New York - maybe even the only Tibetan restaurant anywhere - that serves pumpkin pie.
The Tibetan offerings far surpassed the pie, as one might expect. In fact, Tsampa, decorated with vivid wall hangings and some striking photographs, may be the most sophisticated of the city's eateries serving the food of that country.
You may think you have had the dumplings known as momo at other places, but I'll bet you haven't had the likes of these. They are small and delicate -- while many such dumplings at other restaurants are, often as not, too huge and made with thick, tough wrappers. These dainty morsels are stuffed with such delectable combinations as baby potatoes and scallions, shiitake mushrooms and vegetables, tofu and chives. Momo are available either steamed, our preference, or fried.
A truly spicy dish of cold curried potatoes, Kathmandu aloo, packed a big flavor wallop. Another terrific appetizer was the shiitake pancake, well seasoned with garlic and ginger and served with an apple-walnut sauce. Soup made with roasted ground barley, chicken and vegetables was robust and flavorful, and a mild soup of squash and corn was fine, too.
Bhutanese chicken, zingy with chile, was delicious served with rice and greens. Sherpa khala was an.other superb chicken dish, this time mingling garlic, ginger and greens.
Another winner was the grilled whole brook trout in a tamari-ginger sauce, garnished with fresh, colorful vegetables.
There are a number of vegetarian entrees, too, though in Tibet's cold mountains it must be hard to grow lots of vegetables. But this is New York, where you can get any vegetable any time. Spicy noodles with collard greens and yellow and green zucchini were a good choice from the vegetarian section of the menu.
Green-tea ice cream was some of the best in town. And Tibetan desserts based on basmati rice or roasted barley with raisins and dried cranberries are way better than they sound. Pass on the pumpkin pie.
Note: Tsampa serves filtered water, bills itself as a natural foods restaurant and uses as much organically raised food as possible. So freshly squeezed juices (try carrot with ginger and cucumber) are mainstays, as is the traditional buttered and salted Tibetan tea. There is a short wine list, too.
Reviewed by Sylvia Carter
3/15/02
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