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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

This week’s restaurant reviews

The old Parkwood Cafe site has been transformed

Photo credit: Alessandro Vecchi

In this week’s Newsday, Peter Gianotti bestows three stars on Roots Bistro Gourmand in West Islip, calling it “one of the year’s best restaurants.” Co-owners Philippe Corbet (chef) and James Robert Orlandi (general manager) of the departed O’s Food and Wine Bar in St. James are responsible for a “fresh, ambitious spot [that] upends and refines the bistro idea, French and otherwise, then turns on...

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The Pie at Salvatore's in Bay Shore

Clam pizza (top) and quot;original Neapolitan pizzaquot; are

Photo credit: Newsday Erica Marcus

My go-to pizzeria in Nassau County is Salvatore’s in Port Washington, but until last night I’d never visited its sibling in Bay Shore.

The Port Washington location, Long Island's first coal-oven pizzeria, opened in 1996, a modest storefront in a strip mall. You'd never know from looking at it that it serves some of the Island’s best pie. The Bay Shore store, in contrast, is spacious and...

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Cafe Taka in Bay Shore: Closed

A waitress serves customers at Caf� Taka, a

Photo credit: Photo by Agaton Strom

Cafe Taka, the small and satisfying Turkish eatery that opened in Bay Shore last year, joins the ranks of the departed. The place received a two-star Newsday rating in May of 2011.

Seating was tight and on some nights chef-owner Mike Sarac did double duty as waiter. Recalled from Sarac’s culinary repertoire: comforting zucchini pancakes, vibrant lentil soup and juicy grilled chicken chops.

Above:...

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The Capital Grille opens at Roosevelt Field

Double-cut lamb rib chops at The Capital Grille

Photo credit: handout

The  Capital Grille, the newest link in the national chain of upscale steak-and-seafood restaurants, opens today at Roosevelt Field in Garden City.

There are 48 branches across the country. This is the first on Long island. The restaurant serves lunch, starting at 11:30 a.m., Monday to Friday; and dinner every day, from 4 p.m. It's situated near the movies.

Prices for main courses...

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Graceful Rose graces Port Jefferson

Graceful Rose has a commanding view of Port

Photo credit: Handout

It was from his Italian-born grandmother, Grace, and his mother, Rose, that restaurateur Richard Morrison first  received a culinary education. “They taught me my love of food,“ said Morrison, who parlayed lottery winnings into a restaurant honoring his two mentors.

The new water-view Port Jefferson spot combines family recipes with a menu co-written by executive chef Vincent Michaels,...

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Library Cafe in Farmingdale: Oktoberfest dinner

A DJ entertains the crowd on a Friday

Photo credit: David Pokress

The Library Cafe hoists a few more to Oktoberfest on Tuesday with a beer-fueled dinner.

The four-course meal is $35 per person plus tax and tip. It starts at 7 p.m. Reservations: recommended.

Dishes include German potato soup and potato pancakes, hot Bavarian pretzel with fondue, either jaeger schnitzel with red cabbage or wursts with sauerkraut, and apple strudel. The beverages take...

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West End Cafe in Carle Place: New American, old style

Chicken potpie at West End Cafe in Carle

Photo credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

West End Cafe now may be known more for spawning Market Bistro in Jericho than for its own impact in Carle Place.

The veteran restaurant is good, New American and eclectic. Ideal for lunch, it also has basic appeal at dinnertime. But these days, it just seems less exciting than its offspring. And the service can be uneven.

That said, you still should stop by for the refined chicken potpie,...

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Original Brooklyn Pizza II closes in North Babylon

Chef Maicol Chacon prepares an order in the

Photo credit: Doug Young

Original Brooklyn Pizza II in North Babylon has closed.

The unassuming pizzeria-trattoria, tucked away in a Deer Park Avenue strip mall, garnered a two-star rating in Newsday last December.

Venezuela-born chef-owner Maicol Chacon took  what looked like an ordinary Italian menu and, by dint of his culinary skill, elevated virtually every dish. His hyper-flavorsome pasta e fagiole...

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Cedar Creek in Glen Cove: Dieters welcome

Crispy tuna with wakame cold soba noodles shoshito

Photo credit: Newsday Marjorie Robins

I never know whether to cringe or listen up when dining companions start grilling the servers about what's in the food. Everybody seems half crazed these days about butter, salt, corn syrup, gluten, frying oil.  Part of me thinks they should just stay home and make some oatmeal for dinner.

Nevertheless, the woman serving us the other night at Cedar Creek in Glen Cove seemed primed to...

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Ting opens in Huntington

Alex Neoh is executive chef at the new

Photo credit: Handout

The newest Ting in Huntington turns out to be another Asian Fusion restaurant. Open barely a week, this one makes its home in the lavishly decorated space that previously housed Legacy Asian Fusion and, before that, Dao and, for a number of  years, Empire Szechuan Gourmet.

Executive sushi chef Jacky Zheng, who rolled raw fish at Dao, returns to his reincarnated digs with a repertoire...

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