Inwood: Hunting real estate deals at the tip of Manhattan
Photo credit: Photo by Alana Abel | Puerquito, Mamajuana Cafe's signature dish on Dyckman Street in Inwood.
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When schoolchildren in New York are taught that the Dutch purchased Manhattan Island from American Indians for just $24 and trinkets some 400 years ago, it's unlikely the teacher also mentioned the transaction occurred in Inwood, the borough's most remote neighborhood.
Perched at Manhattan's north end, Inwood blends a unique mix of big-city feel with serene settings. Three beautiful parks, Fort Tryon, Isham and Inwood Hill, surround the Art Deco walk-ups in an oasis of green. Apartment buyers are often attracted to Inwood by the prospect of Hudson River views and good schools, at prices much lower than downtown.
Once the setting of some of the most heated battles of the American Revolution, Inwood transformed from rural to urban in the early 20th century. With the subways came development, and for many years Irish and Jewish families dominated the neighborhood.
That changed in the 1970s and '80s, when an influx of immigrants from the Dominican Republic gave the neighborhood a distinctly Caribbean flavor.
A concentration of buyer-owned co-ops west of Broadway and rented apartments on the east side shape the neighborhood. But that is changing. With younger downtowners coming north in search of cheaper rents, Inwood is seeing a transformation, with more bars, restaurants and hangouts opening to suit the newcomers' tastes.
FIND IT Inwood is bounded by Harlem River to the north and east, Hudson River to the west, and Fairview Avenue to the south.
REAL ESTATE Long ago, development came in waves, first on the east, then west of Broadway, and today the avenue is still a dividing line of sorts. You'll find co-ops on the west -- some in beautiful Art Deco buildings -- and rentals on the east.
Prices have risen in recent years, but the overall pain in the housing market has made a dent, according to Lisa Snyder, a real estate agent for Halstead Property."Everything's come down in price pretty significantly," Snyder said. "Right now the market is dead."
To buy $229,000 : Studio in a 1939 co-op, 425 sq. ft. (Seaman Ave. near 215th St.)
$275,000: One-bedroom, one-bath co-op in elevator building with parking (Park Terrace East and 215th St.)
$675,000: Three-bedroom, two-bath in a 1954 co-op (Indian Road near 215th St.)
$1,720,000: Three-story four-family home with garden patio, 3,456 sq. ft. (95 Park Terrace West)Recently sold
$290,000: One-bedroom, one-bath co-op on Arden Street, 725 sq. ft.
To rent $1,500: Two-bedroom with river views (Cumming St. and Seaman Ave.)
$999: Studio with views facing Inwood Hill Park (Seaman Ave. at 204th St.)
$1,050: One-bedroom (Sherman Ave. at Thayer St.)
Contact: Lisa Snyder, Halstead Property, 718-878-1712
DID YOU KNOW? NBA legend Kareem Abdul-Jabbar grew up here.
The Leonardo DiCaprio film "The Basketball Diaries" was set in 1960s Inwood.
A founder of Macy's Department Store, Isidor Straus, owned a country estate here.
The oldest farmhouse in Manhattan, Dyckman House, is on Broadway and 204th Street
TO EAT Years ago, Inwood was not among the greatest places to find varied and quality eats. But foodies can take heart in knowing that has changed. Today a veritable restaurant row has sprung up on Dyckman Street, and the many Dominican options are now complemented with American, Italian, Asian and Mediterranean spots.
809 Sangria Bar & Grill 112 Dyckman St., 212-304-3800 With a curtained "VIP" section, this Dominican restaurant is one of Inwood's places to be seen. For those who usually trek downtown to eat, the prices are a bargain. A roasted lobster is $28 and filet mignon goes for $26. The appetizer sampler for two comes with arepas, empanadas, crab cakes and croquets, $24. And don't forget the sangria.
Garden Cafe 4961 Broadway (near 211th), 212-544-9480 Neighbors swear by brunch at this American café located steps from Isham Park. In warmer days, the outdoor patio is a plus. You can expect to pay between $27 and $32 for an entrée, stuffed chicken breast and seared wasabi-aioli tuna, respectively.
Indian Road Cafe & Market 600 W. 218th St., 212-942-7451 Exposed brick walls and high ceilings complement the rustic nature of Inwood Hill Park, just past this Italian bistro's doorstep. The chefs go seasonal: this fall an endive salad with toasted pumpkin seeds, apples and dried currants ($10) graces the menu, along with "Arthur Avenue" sausages ($12), beef goulash ($14) and a Portobello and kale sandwich ($10). Also drop by for a wide selection of local craft beers.
Park Terrace Bistro 4959 Broadway (near 207th), 212-567-2828 This French-Moroccan spot won top honors --best dinner, best service and best ambiance -- in Inwood's annual dining guide. The kitchen makes couscous full of shrimp, scallops, almonds, apricots and cranberries, served in saffron cream sauce ($24). Fish, chicken, veggie or lamb tagines range from $16 (veggie) to $25 (fish). If that isn't enough to make you feel like you've been transported to North Africa, the belly dancers and plush interior will.
Mamajuana 247 Dyckman St., 212-304-1217 The big draw at this Dominican restaurant is a buffet-style brunch for just $19, with unlimited mimosas and coffee. Staples such as fresh-to-order omelets and pancakes are offered alongside Dominican dishes such as mashed plantains and black beans and rice. All in an airy, high ceiling space that evokes the Spanish Old World.
de Cafe 4842 Broadway (near 204th), 212-567-7657 For a quick, cheap bite, drop by this Inwood Hill Park coffee shop. Java, espresso and sandwiches serve to energize. And who can beat a breakfast omelet with potatoes and toast for $5.25?
TO PLAY Inwood is no bar-hopping Lower East Side, but there are plenty of watering holes, from lounges to dives. Summertime brings music, movies and performances in the parks. And for those who seek arts, culture and dance year-round, hop a train to nearby Harlem, where museums and music venues abound.
Piper's Kilt 4944 Broadway,near 207th St., 212-569-7071 Customers find a friendly atmosphere and affordable beers at this neighborhood bar. And regulars swear by the burgers, too.
Guadalupe 597 W. 207th St., 212-304-1083 This Mexican restaurant offers one of the best happy hour deals in town: 2-for-one margaritas and half-price bar food and drinks. The cavernous interior has a medieval feel: stained glass and dominating religious-themed paintings abound.
Pied Piper Children's Theater 20 Cumming St., 212-544-2976 Children from 5 to 18 can learn acting skills in this theater located in Holy Trinity Church. The repertoire includes Shakespeare, Don Pasquale and children's classics such as "The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe."
Liffy II Bar 5009 Broadway, near 213th St., 212-544-7255 This comfortable bar is not well known, but it has plenty of perks. Rotating activities range from karaoke to bingo.
TO SHOP
Tread Bike Shop 250 Dyckman St., 212-544-7055 Neighbors swear by the helpful customer service at this bike shop, where tune-ups are always given free estimates.
Nostylgia 251 Dyckman St., 212-304-0337 Sneakerheads will find classic kicks and clothing at this urban boutique.
Quisqueya 551 W. 207th St., 212-569-3531 This shop has a full range of Spanish-language music, from salsa to reggaeton.
Critter Outfitter 210 Pinehurst Ave., 212-928-0342 Locals pick up pet essentials and accessories at this shop just south of Inwood.
PJ's Liquor Warehouse 4898 Broadway, 212-567-5500 This well-stocked spirits house peddles a big selection of wine at surprisingly low prices.
THE BUZZ
Many Inwood residents don't mind being a bit further than most from the bustle of downtown Manhattan.
So it comes as no surprise that when nightlife began to appear in the neighborhood, some began to complain.
Noise by far has been "the most compelling issue" among residents who appear at community board meetings, according to Ebenezer Smith, the district manager of Community Board 12.
"People come from outside the neighborhood, they come to Dyckman and cruise," Smith said. "The residents think this noise is from restaurants on Dyckman, but really the restaurants have nothing to do with it."
ESSENTIAL INWOOD
The Cloisters Fort Tyron Park, A train to 190th A perfect place to appreciate Inwood's beauty is the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Cloisters in Fort Tryon Park. In this medieval art museum, you'll feel far from the city, with breathtaking views of the Hudson River. Inside, 5,000 artworks, including tapestries, sculpture and painting, date from the Ninth to the 15th centuries, when lords and ladies ruled Europe. The building is assembled from five monastic structures from southern France whose gardens are tended today just as they would have been 600 years ago.
TO SEE
More than any other neighborhood, Inwood offers peeks into Manhattan's rural, Dutch Colonial past.
The Little Red Lighthouse 218th St. and Indian Road, 212-304-2365 It's hard not to love this landmark under the George Washington Bridge. Check out the Hudson views from Ferry's Hook or visit the Little Red Lighthouse Festival next September.
Dyckman House 4881 Broadway at 204th St., 212-304-9422 Visiting this 1784 farmhouse, the oldest in Manhattan, gives you a chance to imagine upper Manhattan when it was just fields. Now a museum, entry is $1 for adults and free for children. It is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Inwood Hill Park Dyckman St. and Payson Ave., 212-304-2365 This park, shown above, on Manhattan island's northernmost tip boasts the only natural forest left in the borough. Here is where Dutch colonist Peter Minuit bought Manhattan island for the equivalent of $24 and some trinkets in 1626. Today you will find caves, a salt marsh, birds and a host of ballfields and trails.
Fort Tryon Park Fort Washington Ave. and Cabrini Blvd., 212-795-1388 You can thank John D. Rockefeller Jr. for crafting this breathtaking park, a former battleground during the American Revolution.Steep hills offer amazing views of the Hudson River and the New Jersey Palisades, providing the perfect setting for a walk or run.
The BASICS
Subway 207th, or 215th; A to Dyckman or 207th - Inwood. Bus: 100 or Bx 7 (Broadway), Bx 12 (207th Street), 4 (Fort Washington Ave)
Schools Public: Elementary: Amistad Dual Language School, 212-544-8021. Middle: Harbor Heights Middle School, 212-927-1841. High: High School for International Business and Finance, 212-927-1841; High School for Health Careers and Science, 212-927-1841. Private: Good Shepherd School, 212-567-5800; Northeastern Academy, 212-569-4800Banks
Bank of America, 4941 Broadway, 212-544-0147; Chase, 161 Dyckman St., 212-304-2286 ;
Food Markets Pathmark, 410 W. 207th St., 212-569-0600; La Torre Supermarket, 5008 Broadway, 212-942-1212
Library Inwood Library, 4790 Broadway, 212-942-2445
Post Office 90 Vermilyea Ave., 212-000-1111
Community Board CB12, 711 W. 168th St., 212-568-8500
Police 34th Precinct, 4295 Broadway, 212-927-9711
Fire Department Engine 95, 515 W. 181st St., 212-570-4284
Crime The 34th Precinct, which covers Washington Heights and Inwood, has reported three murders, 17 rapes and 229 robberies so far this year. It reported one murder, 18 rapes and 243 robberies through this time last year.
Q&A
David Gross, 20, is a student and lifelong Inwood resident.
How has Inwood changed over the years? My dad has seen more change than I have. He's seen it grow more Hispanic, and now more white people are moving up here again. Recently a lot of restaurants have been popping up around here, like Mamajuana, that attract a lot of people. That's one of the biggest changes I've seen. As far as safety, it was worse before; they've actually done a lot of clean-up and it's pretty safe.
Where do you like to hang out? Dyckman Express is one of my favorite places [to eat]. It's cheap but really good.
Is gentrification affecting the neighborhood? It's interesting because there's kind of a split. In the last five or six years we've gotten a lot more people from downtown. Apartments have gone up a lot. I've seen a studio go from $700 a month to $1,100 now. It's still cheaper than downtown, but it's a lot more expensive now.
What attracts people to Inwood? We've got a lot of shops where you can get clothes. A big, big thing is the restaurants. If you come to Dyckman on a Friday or Saturday night, you can't find any parking, some places even have valet parking.
What might deter someone from moving here? Parking. Just the amount of people who come out during the prime hours from 4:30 in the afternoon on make it really frustrating. There's sometimes construction on the subway, but I go to Westchester for school, so I don't find it an issue.
If someone had a few hours to visit, what should they do? Eat! You can tell I'm a big food person. But besides that, definitely the Cloisters in Fort Tryon Park. And Inwood Park is nice because it's still natural. You'll see people playing baseball, handball, soccer, everything.
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