New York real estate: Chelsea

By Craig Raphael | Special to amNewYork

July 31, 2008

At Ruthy's Bakery in Chelsea Market, bite into Bert or Earnie or any number of loveable characters. (Katya Pronin / July 30, 2008)

It's hard to believe that less than 70 years ago, steam locomotives barreled down 10th Avenue flagged by cowboys on horseback. The West Side Cowboys, as they were called, galloped bravely in front of the train to warn pedestrians of imminent danger, waving red flags by day and red lanterns by night.

Today, Chelsea's former "Death Avenue" is an ever-expanding row of galleries, restaurants and bars. Elevated railroad tracks that once carried produce and other goods directly to factories are being converted into a park and pedestrian promenade.

Chelsea has never been in higher demand, and it's easy to see why: beautiful tree-lined streets, especially between Seventh and Ninth avenues; a host of ethnic restaurants and fine dining establishments; great cultural and racial diversity; and proximity to both downtown and midtown Manhattan.

"It's a really functional neighborhood -- everything you need is close by -- and it's diverse too," said resident Renee Espiau, who has lived in the neighborhood for four years.

Named after the home of retired British Major Thomas Clarke, Chelsea has played a key role in the development of Manhattan throughout its history.

Originally a rural enclave lined with beautiful townhouses and gardens (many of which still remain), the area changed fundamentally when the Hudson River Railroad built freight tracks next to the waterfront in the 1840s.

In the late 19th century, Chelsea emerged as a cultural center as well as an industrial one; it was an important site for American theater and the motion picture industry in the years preceding World War One.

These cultural assets persist today in the form of visual art and performance spaces, as well as in the rich diversity of the neighborhood's occupants.

Find It

Chelsea is bordered on the south by Greenwich Village and the Meatpacking District, on the north by the Garment District and Hell's Kitchen, on the west by the Hudson River, and the east by Seventh Avenue.

TO EAT

Chelsea is host to more than a hundred restaurants and there's something for everyone, from Spanish tapas to Indian street food. The wealth of choices can be overwhelming, so it helps to come with a plan in hand.

Bombay Talkie

Indian street food, divided into categories including "street bites," "curbside," and "roadside" is given the royal treatment at this swanky spot on Ninth Avenue. Lamb chops marinated in ginger, garlic and yogurt, and spicy pork vindaloo are among the highlights; for drinks, the creative specialty cocktails are hard to beat. 189 Ninth Ave.. 212-242-1900

Casa Havana

A sign in the window of this Cuban diner boasts "best Cuban sandwich," and it's hard to argue with the fresh pork, melted Swiss cheese, mustard and pickle slapped between two slices of bread. Other highlights include the ropa vieja (literally "old clothes," shredded beef stew) and the octopus salad. 190 Eighth Avenue (between19th and 20th streets) 212-243-9421

Chelsea Ristorante

A neighborhood spot with all the trappings of a cozy Italian restaurant -- mosaic ceiling, wood-burning stove, and old-time black-and-white photographs of Italian street life. The food is satisfying too, with generous portions of meat and risotto, in addition to a buttery, tender Cornish hen. 108 Eighth Ave. (between 15th and 16th streets) 212-924-7786

Mare

Oyster happy hour at Mare is fit for a king -- 50 percent off oysters, house wines, and draft beer. If you consider that an appetizer, there are fresh fish specials and tasty pastas, too.

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