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Peter Gianotti

Peter M. Gianotti is Newsday's restaurant critic and wine-and-spirits columnist. He's the author of "A Guide to Long Island Wine Country," "Newsday's Guide to the Wines of Long Island," "Dining Out with Newsday" and co-author of "Newsday's Long Island Restaurant Guide" and "Eats NYC." Before reviewing restaurants, Gianotti was a Washington correspondent, economics writer, book critic and New York City reporter. Gianotti received his master's degree from Columbia University, where he also was a Bagehot Fellow; and his bachelor's degree from Fordham University, where he has taught journalism. He was born in Brooklyn, raised in Queens and lives on Long Island.

Brasserie HaLevi in Cedarhurst: First bites

Brasserie HaLevi is a kosher, continental restaurant in

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

Brasserie HaLevi brings a bright touch to dining out in Cedarhurst.

The glatt kosher, primarily New American restaurant, is airy, in light hues, with a stylized,  modern look and efficient service.

Better choices include the sriracha-marinated spicy fried chicken, which delivers crunchiness and heat, with corn succotash, red cabbage and mashed potatoes on the side. Also tasty is...

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The new Old Fields in Port Jefferson: First bites

Shrimp and grits is an appetizer at Old

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

Old Fields, a landmark in Greenlawn, is on its way to the same status in Port Jefferson.

Owner Dave Tunney's new branch, in the former quarters of Pace's steak house, delivers generously portioned and equally fine food, an unpretentious manner and the excellent service that Greenlawn regulars have enjoyed for years.

The menu is identical to the one in Greenlawn. Both are a bit more expensive...

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Grillfire in Syosset: First bites

Cedar-planked salmon with Chinese mustard and Brussels sprouts

(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)

The new, sharply focused Grillfire in Syosset differs from its namesakes in Merrick and Rockville Centre, in style and cost.

This one, a collaboration between George Korten of the George Martin Restaurant Group and Richard Cutler of Mim's Hospitality, clearly veers more upscale. Grillfire, yes, but by way of George Martin of Rockville Centre and Mim's of Roslyn Heights.

It's on the former...

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Kashi open in Syosset

The Syosset branch of Kashi Japanese restaurant is

(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)

Glittery and colorful, the new branch of Kashi is open in Syosset.

It's the third Kashi Japanese restaurant on Long Island. The others are in Huntington and Rockville Centre.

In full, this one is called Kashi Sushi Lounge. But, in addition to traditional sushi, sashimi and more than 50 sushi rolls, it offers plenty of the cooked fare and east-west combinations that also define the franchise.

At...

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Tate's in Southampton: Best new flavor

The new cookie at Tate's in Southampton in

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

Tate's Bake Shop, the Southampton landmark and local capital of the cookie world, always is a delightful stop. But when a sign says "NEW," that means it's even more so.

And what's new are sensational vanilla cookies -- wafer-thin, sweetness restrained, and absolutely addictive. The last new Tate's taste, still terrific, was the double chocolate chip cookie. A dark and grand creation, it even...

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Peach season peaks in Riverhead

A sign of peach season: the fresh peach

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

Ripeness is all in Riverhead. And that means peaches.

Two sweet ways to celebrate: the fresh peach sundae at Snowflake, the landmark for ice cream; and the fresh peach cream pie at Briermere Farms, the very popular stand for fruits and vegetables, but especially pies and jams.

The Snowflake sundae can be crowned with whipped cream and a cherry. But be a purist and stick with the peaches...

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Montauk: Small plates, big flavors

Heirloom cherry tomatoes and housemade ricotta toppings star

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

Something old and something new add up to something very good in Montauk.

And, equally important, they're open well beyond Labor Day.

New is The Harbor Raw Bar & Lounge, which brings a minimalist look and a lot of flavor to the harbor area. Chef Pierre Rougey previously cooked at Barrique and now-gone Emerson's in Babylon. Here, he specializes in small plates.

Recommended:...

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Moby's in East Hampton: Post-season play

Wood-fired pizza, such as this one with coppa,

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

Moby's arrived well after Memorial Day, relocating from Montauk into the sprawling space that has housed restaurants as different from each other as Spring Close House, Farmhouse and the Laundry.

And it's gathering crowds even as Labor Day signals the season's unofficial finale. Besides, wood-fired pizzas are forever.

You'll find very good ones here, including a satisfying number topped...

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Long Island's 10 best seafood restaurants

Grilled Montauk swordfish is served with sweet sausage

(Credit: Doug Young)

Newsday's "Eat Here Now," top-100 restaurant series continues this week with the 10 best seafood houses.

You put up with a lot of limp fried calamari and overcooked, farmed salmon before making the big catch. These 10 make up for all the overdone broiled seafood platters and stuffed flounders.

The 2014 list includes places as different from each other as the casual restaurant and market, ...

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