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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

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Peter Gianotti

Peter M. Gianotti is Newsday's restaurant critic and wine-and-spirits columnist. He's the author of "A Guide to Long Island Wine Country," "Newsday's Guide to the Wines of Long Island," "Dining Out with Newsday" and co-author of "Newsday's Long Island Restaurant Guide" and "Eats NYC." Before reviewing restaurants, Gianotti was a Washington correspondent, economics writer, book critic and New York City reporter. Gianotti received his master's degree from Columbia University, where he also was a Bagehot Fellow; and his bachelor's degree from Fordham University, where he has taught journalism. He was born in Brooklyn, raised in Queens and lives on Long Island.

Cafe Testarossa in Syosset: First bites

Meatball sliders are flavorful at Cafe Testarossa in

(Credit: Jeremy Bales)

Actually, this should be more like the 101st bite.

I first visited Cafe Testarossa in 1988. It was very good. And, over the years, the restaurant named for the great marque of Maranello has zoomed along. There have been some hints of  Emilia-Romagna, but Billy Sansone's establishment usually  revved up in its own way.

Now, it's at full throttle, with Italian and New American...

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