This relaxed, friendly restaurant is an offspring of West End Cafe in Carle Place. Bill Holden, executive chef-owner of West End, and his son, Chris Holden, who worked at db Bistro Moderne in Manhattan, run the kitchen here. Adam Acerra, also a West Ender, is part maitre d', part sommelier.
Here, the look is country-meets-city, a little lower Manhattan by way of the North Fork. Once inside, you definitely won't think you're headed for dinner in a shopping center with windows on the parking lot. And it's unlikely you'll have any recollection that this address once housed the pan Asian-vegetarian Green Melody. --Peter M. Gianotti