Transplanting bushes is safest in late fall

I want to transplant several forsythia bushes. When is the best time to move them?

Pat, Islip



The best time to move forsythias - and most shrubs, for that matter - is in the late fall or over the winter when they're dormant. Moving them in spring also is possible, but you'd be taking a chance. Transplanting now or any time after the buds have swelled would increase the odds of transplant shock, which, at best, would slow down establishment and probably diminish blooming this year, and at worst, could kill the plant altogether. Regardless of when you attempt this, to ensure you don't sever any roots, be sure to dig up an area that extends to where the farthest branches reach.



My gardens are full of moss. I try to dig it out, but it comes back worse. What can I use or do to get rid of it, and still be able to plant flowers?

Deb Koch, Lake Grove



Ewww, moss. That's a problem I don't like hearing about. Moss takes advantage of poor soil cover in neglected lawns, or where it finds conditions favorable in moist, shady spots. Low soil fertility, acidic pH, poor drainage, compacted soil and too-short mowing also can contribute to the problem.

Your first course of action should be to have your soil tested. Call the Cornell Cooperative Extension (516-228-0426 in Nassau; 631-727-7850 in Suffolk) for information on how to collect a sample and when and where to bring it. They will recommend a course of action for improving the soil, if necessary.

Don't bother spending money on any of the moss-eradication products on the market. While they are effective, their solution is temporary. Without improving conditions, the moss will surely return.

First, rake out the moss. Next, you'll have to make the area inhospitable to prevent its return. Adjust the pH if your soil test indicates you should. If the soil is compacted, core aeration will help. If it's too shady, you'll have to weigh the pros and cons of removing tree limbs or entire trees. If it's damp, consider installing drainage.

The good news is that, although you might find it unsightly, the moss is not aggressively competitive and is generally harmless to your plants.



I have a greenhouse and was wondering: what does it mean when the seed packages say "harden off before replanting"?

Maryann Ryan, Babylon



Hardening off means getting new seedlings gradually adjusted to the outdoor climate. Simply planting them outdoors is likely to send them into shock. You should get them acclimated, generally starting around mid-May. Begin setting them outside for a half-hour a day and work up to eight hours daily over the course of 10 days or so before planting in the garden. Be sure to keep them in a shady area protected from wind during the process. I envy you your greenhouse.



My front lawn looks like the moon. The squirrels have done a great job of that. Now how do I repair the lawn? And how do I prevent further or future damage?

Maria Mckenzie, Huntington



As you have learned firsthand, squirrels like to use the area under lawns as their personal cupboards. They collect acorns and other food in the fall and dig up lawns to bury their stash. Come winter, they dig again to feast at the buffet. You probably have several squirrels, since the damage sounds extensive, so I'm guessing there's an abundant food source nearby, like oak trees or open bird feeders. Repellents containing capsaicin, the active ingredient in hot peppers, have been shown to keep squirrels from digging in landscaped areas. Get Away Squirrel and Raccoon Repellent is one such product.

To repair the damage, fill each hole with sterile topsoil and tamp down with your foot to level the area with the rest of the lawn. Water the area lightly and sprinkle with grass seed. Then scrape the area gently with a fork. Water each spot daily, taking care to avoid washing away the seed. And don't mow until the new grass is 3 inches high.

Related topic galleries: Fertilizer, Chemicals