The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
When I’m at the beach, I want clams on the half shell. I’ll take them when I’m on the bank of a river or by the side of a lake. Also, in the vicinity of no water at all.
Today driving along the treed splendor of Route 25A in Smithtown, I passed Nick’s Pizza and Clam Bar, a seasonal place that always seems to be closed when I’m in the neighborhood. Today I hit the brakes and settled in for some clams on Nick’s pretty, tree-shaded deck. My dozen top necks on the half shell ($14.95) were terrific, the New England clam chowder ($5.95) much less so. I sifted out the rather tough clam chunks and left the gloppy chowder behind.
Nicks Pizza and Clam Bar is open from April through October at 243 N. Country Rd., Smithtown, 631-724-5427, nickspizzaandclambar.blogspot.com.