Spain still reigns

Authentic Spanish tapas remain royalty when it comes to small plates

By Terri Mooney

May 24, 2005

If you're like us, you've about had it with these new small plate eateries featuring skimpy portions at not-so-skimpy prices. So, we decided to take a cue from the upswing of interest in Spanish cuisine and check out the original small platers, tapas. Chefs around town are presenting more authentic items and expanding their offerings. Check out these spots for sharable Spanish fare at wallet-friendly prices.

Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
This eatery, which has been jumpin' in Lincoln Park for 20 years, recently added more traditional dishes, such as the calderos, a stew-like version of paella with seafood or braised shortrib options ($11.95 per person). Other authentic fare includes the plato de la casa, an ample plate of Serrano ham, Spanish chorizo, salchichon (flavorful pork sausage) and manchego cheese, with house-marinated arbequina olives ($7.50; $14.95). For a twist on tradition, try the Torro Brochetas ($13.95-$17.95): a dangling metal skewer with your choice of shrimp, chicken, pork or beef, along with a special dipping sauce, perfect for sharing. 2024 N. Halsted St. 773-935-5000.

Rioja

Jack Jones did a quickie refresh on his former fish-focused Atlantique, turning the staid, white-linen Andersonville eatery into a festive Spanish tapas spot in a matter of weeks. We were impressed with the super-sized merienda ("afternoon snack") platter with Serrano ham, chorizo, piquillo peppers, white anchovies, marinated artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes and San Simon and manchego cheeses ($9.25). Other highlights include the roast pork tenderloin with fig-amontillado sauce (a dry Spanish sherry), served with manchego mashed potatoes ($5.95; $13.95), and the Seville orange-and-garlic marinated skirt steak with Calasparra rice pilaf, fava beans and Spanish chorizo ($7.25; $14.50). 5101 N. Clark St. 773-275-9191.

Arco de Cuchilleros
When Miquel Sanchez opened this Boystown tapas spot 14 years ago, there were so few Spanish eateries he had trouble purchasing paella pans in Chicago. He ended up "borrowing" some in order to serve his paella Valenciana. This dish is loaded with saffron-scented rice, mussels, clams, shrimp, pork and chicken, and is the perfect size for sharing ($15.50). Smaller tapas include the datiles con bacon, dates wrapped in bacon with a brandy cream sauce ($7.50), and the tarta de espinacas a la Catalana, tarts stuffed with sauteed spinach, raisins and pine nuts ($8.50). 3445 N. Halsted St. 773-296-6046.

1492 Tapas Bar
One of the most authentic Spanish choices at this River North spot is the boquerones, a dish of marinated white anchovy filets with garlic bread and roasted piquillo peppers, green peppers, zucchini and asparagus ($6.92). The white anchovies are much less salty and fishy-tasting than the canned anchovies most of us are used to. Other options include the pulpo a la plancha, grilled Galacian octopus seasoned with Spanish paprika, garlic and saffron, then tossed with Seville-style sauteed potatoes ($8.92); and the lomo embuchado, a platter of dry-cured pork loin ($7.92). 42 E. Superior St. 312-867-1492.

Sangria Restaurant & Tapas Bar
Although Sangria features dishes from more than 20 Latin countries, the menu at this Weed Street spot always includes some options from the motherland. Offerings include the croquetas de jamon y queso, a fried potato dumpling stuffed with Serrano ham and manchego cheese ($4.95), and the tortilla Espanola, a traditional omelet stuffed with potato and onion; it's much lighter and fluffier than an American-style omelet, and is served chilled ($3.95). Or go for the marinated manchego plate; the cheese gets drizzled with olive oil and Champagne vinaigrette, and comes with Spanish olives ($6.95). 901 W. Weed St. 312-266-1200.

Terri Mooney is a metromix special contributor.