Great brunches

Linda Perney

French toast for brunch

Brunch is one of those meals that have to be just right: It's too early in the morning to be frazzled with innovative dishes that don't work. What you want is a place to sit down with the paper and food you can count on. Here are some favorite places around the city.

MANHATTAN

Cornelia Street Cafe. Simple and relaxed. Take a seat outside and order the brunch special. $15 buys a croissant , a mimosa, a stack of pancakes, and plenty of coffee. There are other choices -- you can have a bloody mary, if you want to skip the mimosa, and there's a hearty farmer's breakfast of eggs, bacon and potatoes if you don't like pancakes. If you want to spend a little more, there's an a la carte menu with burgers, pasta, salmon and salad. (29 Cornelia Street; 212-989-9319)

Pastis Ever stylish, Pastis has a great brunch, whether you want to be very French --egs sardou, onion soup. Or very American -- pancakes with fruit and maple syrup. Or very New York, with a bagel and smoked salmon. There are also pastas, roast lobster, and steak frites, if you're just very hungry. And don't forget the stylish cocktails: champagne with strawberry puree is the favorite around here. (Expect to pay between $30 and $40. 9 Ninth Avenue; 212-929-4844)

Sarabeth's Either you love Sarabeth's outposts or you hate them. We happen to love them. After all, it's hard to argue with a brunch menu that ranges from porridge to omelettes to pancakes to waffles and even includes a root-beer float. (Expect to pay between $10 and $25. 423 Amsterdam Avenue; 212-496-6280. 1295 Madison Avenue; 212-410-7335. 40 Central Park South; 212-826-5959)

Spotted Pig. In the Far West Village, the Pig is a terrific place for a meal -- provided you don't mind being part of a mob. The crowds are worse sinced the star -- that is, since they got their Michelin star. But, face it, the place was always jammed. And rightly so: This is pub grub on a very high level. The burgers with roquefort and shostrings make for a satisfying way to start the day. So does the smoked trout. Not to mention the oysters, which are best of all. (Expect to pay between $25 and $40. 311 West 11th Street; 212-620-0393)

Chat n Chew. This all-American café near Union Square is full of kitschy signs and old-fashioned kitchen implements, but the food is un-gimmicky down-home traditional. Try the blueberry pancakes (which come with blueberry sauce and blueberry butter) or the oatmeal with raisins and brown sugar. Eggs, salads, sandwiches, burgers, - and killer mac and cheese. Desserts and shakes taste exactly as they should. (10 East 16th Street; 212-243-1616)

Rocking Horse Cafe has a brunch that will open your eyes. Mexican specialties take pride of plcae on the menu: Burrito of steak with scrambled eggs and jalapeno salsa is bound to cure what ails you; enchiladas stuffed with chicken salsa, refried beans and pickled cabbage will fill you right up, and if you're looking for a kinder, gentler way to face the morning after the night before, there are cinnamon griddle cakes with ancho chile maple syrup. If you need a hair of the dog, try the frozen lime margarita. (Expect to pay $14.95 for the a la carte menu; 182 Eigth Avenue; 212-463-9511)

BROOKLYN

Madiba. You could have rusks and coffee. But maybe that's a little too authentic. Instead, you'll have the safari breakfast or the French toast with fruit. Plus a side order of crumpets or scones. Then, you'll read the paper, if you have half a brain, while sitting outside in the sunshine at this cheerful South African place in the heart of Fort Greene. (Expect to pay between $12 and $23. 195 deKalb Avenue; 718-855-9190)

QUEENS

Brick Cafe. This friendly place offers a nice sidewalk cafe where you can while away a Sunday morning with the newspapers. Brunches can start with a Brick salad (hearts of palm/chick peas/ tomatoes/parmesan) or grilled sardines. Mains include omelettes, frittata, French toast, sandwiches, or a selection of pastas. (Expect to pay between $7.95 and $18.95. 30-95 33rd Street, Astoria; 718-267-2735)