Art comes to life at the gateway to the Berkshires

By Jamshid Mousavinezhad, amNY.com | jmousavinezhad@am-ny.com

August 5, 2008

Olana, the estate of landscape painter Frederic Edwin Church. (amNewYork Photo/ Jamshid Mousavinezhad / August 4, 2008)

A few hours out of Grand Central Terminal sits the gateway to the Berkshires, a mountainscape straddling New York, Massachusetts and Connecticut that looks like a painting come to life.

The largely unspoiled wilderness of dark forests, rolling hills and fresh air was immortalized by the 19th century Hudson River School art movement, and continues to draw artists looking for inspiration.

A top spot for artists and tourists alike is the estate of landscape painter Frederic Edwin Church, which he bought in 1860 and named Olana after a fortress treasure-house in ancient Persia.

The magnificent estate sits in Greenport, with a startling view of the Hudson River. If you squint, you can still make out the sweeping vistas that Church made famous in his paintings.

The tour of the home is well worth the $9 fee, as personable guides point out the Middle Eastern and European influences of Church¹s eclectic home, with the architecture drawn from visits to Beirut, Jerusalem and Damascus.

Surprises designed to bring the outdoors inside flourish: Arches replace doors, golden light streams from amber-backed windows, impish statues lurk in corners and an oasis-like courtyard is recreated indoors.

The walls are lined with fanciful stencils designed by Church, jostling for position with scores of paintings by European artists collected by Church on his travels. Some of the ³Old Masters² are actually forgeries, according to an Olana guide; and in a few cases, Church improved¹ the works by painting in his own details.

From Olana, the more modest home of Church¹s mentor Thomas Cole sits west across the nearby Rip Van Winkle Bridge. East of Olana lies a string of roadside markets stuffed with everything from cherries to corn to kale that are a common sight on the well-paved roads crisscrossing the region¹s farms.

About 45 minutes east of Olana and across the border in Massachusetts you¹ll find Great Barrington, an idealized New England town. The walkable downtown is a throwback to a more innocent past, boasting everything from an old-school candy store to a restored movie theater and SoCo Creamery, a famous ice cream store complete with long lines.

But before you spoil your appetite, drive a few minutes east out of downtown. There you¹ll find a gem of a Chinese restaurant (with a Japanese name), Koi, right next to a Jewish summer camp.

The ornate interior is spotless, and the standouts on the classic Chinese menu include fresh sesame noodles and crisp scallion pancakes. It¹s a taste of the city deep in the Berkshires.

Where: Greenport and Great Barrington in the heart of the Berkshire Mountains.

Getting there: Your best bet is to take Amtrak to the town of Hudson, and then a taxi south to Olana. New Jersey Transit also offers bus service from the Port Authority.

Places to go: Olana, the estate of Frederic Church, a mid-19th century painter who is one of the most celebrated artists of the Hudson River school of art movement. 5720 State Route 9G, Hudson, Ny., (518) 828-0135

Nature hikes: Get even closer to nature, with a long list of hiking spots and lakes compiled at The Berkshire Web (www.berkshireweb.com).

Lodging: A directory of lodging options including, bed and breakfasts, motels and hotels can be found at www.berkshires.org/ n Restaurants: Koi, a Chinese restaurant with a Japanese name, is a gem for $20 a person. 302 State Road, Great Barrington, Ma. (413) 528-5678

Sweet stop: SoCo Creamery boasts fresh, small-batch ice cream and features longs lines. Try the dirty chocolate, or the snickerdoodle caramel crunch. 5 Railroad St., Great Barrington, Ma., (413) 528-9420