Southern food in the city

BY AMANDA Y. BARRETT | amNY.com

3:34 PM EDT, October 24, 2006

Waffles and strawberries from Amy Ruth restaurant (Lane Johnson/amNew York)

In the mood for some good old Southern cooking? Here'are some great places to warm your heart and your tummy.

MANHATTAN

Acme. The Noho establishment has a Cajun flavor with its crawfish and po' boys, but its still got lots of Southern charm, particularly in the corn bread, homemade mashed potatoes and macaroni and cheese. The fried catfish and oysters are tasty and plentiful, but the collard greens make me yearn for Virginia. (9 Great Jones St.; 212-420-1934; dinner entrees range from $9.95 to $15.95).

Amy Ruth's Home Style Southern Cuisine. The Harlem eatery features a cheery and cozy atmosphere, friendly service and standout dishes, including The Rev. Al Sharpton (chicken and waffles), The Roger Toussaint (smothered turkey wings) and The Ludacris (fried chicken wings). Breakfast is also a winner with great grits and smothered chicken livers. (113 W. 116th St.; 212-280-8779; dinner entrees range from $11.95 to $18.95).

Charles' Southern-Style Kitchen. Crisply fried chicken, smothered chicken and ribs, oxtails and salmon cakes are among the highlights at this Harlem establishment where you can hit the buffet or take it to go. (Frederick Douglass Boulevard, near 151st Street; 212-926-4313; buffet $9.95 weekday lunch and $11.95 dinner and weekends).

Mama's Food Shop. Mama makes comfort food good and basic with grilled, fried and roasted chicken and salmon. A wide range of sides included turnips, red swiss chard and carrots and beets. Cobbler is the dessert star here. (200 East Third St.; 212-777-4425; dinner entrees are $9 with one side, $10 with two).

Miss Mamie's Spoonbread Too. If you're looking for a little Caribbean flavor with your Southern food, this is the place to go. The jerk chicken, curry chicken wings and rice and peas add spice to the usual fried chicken and catfish. And don't forget dessert. The coconut cake and sweet potato pie are to die for. (366 W 110th St.; 212-865-6744; dinner entrees range from $10.95 to $15.95).

Pink Tea Cup. The Village spot goes beyond the ordinary with ham hocks, tasty chicken-n-dumplings and one of my favorites, liver and onions. But breakfast shines too, with pecan pancakes and catfish with grits. Peach cobbler may not be Mama's, but it's still pretty good. (42 Grove St.; 212-807-6755; dinner entrees range from $10.50 to $15.50).

BROOKLYN

Boca Soul. This place has something for everyone with jerk chicken and grilled shrimp salad for dieters and vegetable stir fry and jerk stir fry with tofu for the vegetarians among us, in addition to fried chicken, shrimp and fish and chips. And there are two types of sweet potatoes: fries and carmelized. (919 Fulton St.; 718-398-6445; dinner entrees range from $8 to $11).

Pies 'n' Thighs. This tiny and inexpensive spot under the Williamsburg Bridge features Carolina-style pulled pork sandwiches, fried chicken, catfish, and homemade cookies and light and fluffy biscuits. (351 Kent Ave.; 347-282-6005; dinner ranges from $3 to $8).

QUEENS

Rib Shack. Queens folks come from miles around for the tasty ribs that fall off the bone, the scrumptious fried and roasted chicken and the juicy ox tails. Cabbage and collards are done just right, too. And the peach cobbler and banana pudding will make you want to eat the whole pan. (157-06 Linden Blvd, Jamaica; 718-659-7000; dinner entrees range from $8.95 to $12.95).