On a roll with sushi

By Karen Tina Harrison | Special to amNewYork

2:05 PM EST, November 29, 2006

New Yorkers are island folk, and we love fish. Here are some of the city's most popular sushi restaurants, both creative "fusion" style and traditional Japanese.

Japonica This locally beloved Village veteran prepares sushi and cooked dishes with flair and care. The chirashi ($30) is a fish fiend's fantasy: a wealth of ocean-fresh slices atop seasoned rice and play-with-your-food garnishes. (100 University Place; 212-243-7752. Sushi deluxe, $30)

Sushiden These twin New York outposts of a Tokyo-based restaurant slice and dice ultra-fresh fish for midtown lunches and dinners. The vibe is serene, and the sushi refined. Check out the sake list. (19 East 49th Street; 212-758-2700. 23 West 49th Street; 212-398-2800. Sushi deluxe, $19.50-$34)

Yama This Manhattan sushi chainlet has become something of a Gotham cult. The buzz is all about Yama's signature sushi: whoppingly cut slabs that melt in your mouth and satisfy your appetite -- till your next Yama craving hits. (Multiple locations. www.yamarestaurant.com Sushi deluxe, $18)

Avenue A Sushi This longtime local fave provides good sushi at a great price in the increasingly expensive East Village. And how many Japanese restaurants boast wild art, weekend DJs, early-bird specials and wee-hour service? (103 Avenue A; 212-982-8109. Sushi deluxe, $16)

Sushi Yasuda Sushi purists, including Japanese execs in crisp white shirts, rely on this all-bamboo nook for palate-wowing pieces and rolls made with pride and time-honored technique. Yasuda is considered tops by many sushi mavens. (204 East 43rd Street; 212-972-1001. Sushi deluxe, $34 and up)

SushiSamba These hip hotspots serve sexy, colorful Brazilian ambiance and tropically-accented sushi revved up with pineapple or jalapeño. Japanese-born master chef Taka ensures that the fish glistens and the cross-cultural concepts fly. (245 Park Avenue South; 212-475-9377. 87 Seventh Avenue South; 212-691-7885. Sushi deluxe, $24)

Sushi of Gari/Gari Gari's original East Side location is simple; his newer West Sider is snazzier. They both flaunt buttery fish and avant-garde innovations like foie gras-topped sushi. Splurgers ask for off-the-menu rolls and chef-chosen "omakase" meals. (402 East 78th Street; 212-517-5340. 370 Columbus Avenue; 212-362-4816. Sushi deluxe, $55 up)

BROOKLYN

Kotobuki Bistro This sleek, inviting western Brooklyn haunt draws sushi savants from Cobble Hill, Red Hook and Carroll Gardens. Ingredients are chosen for maximum flavor, and hand rolls, named for neighborhood streets, are crammed with good stuff. (192 Columbia Street, Carroll Gardens; 718-246-7980. Sushi deluxe, $14)

Taro Sushi Thanks to Park Slope's Taro, locals don't have to leave Kings County for classic Japanese sushi. The place is low-key, but the fish is highest-grade. And moderate checks make it a real Brooklyn bargain. (446 Dean Street, Park Slope; 718-398-0872. Sushi deluxe, $16)

QUEENS

Mickey's Place Chef-owner Mickey Muroi's artistic Tokyo touch is evident in specialties like his red-and-green Christmas roll or spicy-tuna-filled "apple" that's really a carved avocado. Muroi's fish tastes of the sea, but his tabs are down-to-earth. (101-16 Queens Boulevard, Forest Hills; 718-897-9898. Sushi deluxe, $14.95)

JJ's Fusion & Sushi Bar This Astoria spot tempts with a seductive South Seas air and exotic sushi sparked by coconut or mango. Connoisseurs go for chef Richard Lin's smoky "white pepper tuna" sushi and dazzling house rolls like the Fancy Dragon. (37-05 31st Avenue, Astoria; 718-626-8888. Sushi deluxe, $15.95)