Buffet de la Gare

155 Southside Ave. Hastings-on-Hudson, NY 914-478-1671

The confit de canard, lentilles vertes du Puy

(Credit: Leslie Barbaro)

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Type: French Special features: Romantic Price range: $$$ (Expensive) Description:

If every town had a Buffet de la Gare, the country would be a kinder and gentler place. Since 1980 — with a brief hiatus — the Goulet family have offered the fortunate souls of Westchester a refuge that is consistently delightful and uncompromisingly French. The cozy dining room, with a turn-of-the-century ambiance, holds about a dozen café tables draped in white tablecloths. Knowledgeable servers are assiduously efficient and guests are never rushed or prodded. The menu is a savory historical document: escargot with garlic and parsley, fois gras, brandade de morue (a mousse of salt cod that is prepared here with the addition of lobster meat), a don’t-miss confit of duck with lentils, sweetbreads with morel sauce, and more. More oldies but goodies: Îles flottantes (clouds of meringue over crème anglaise), flaky apple tart and the oldie but goodie, crêpes Suzette. The French-leaning wine list is expertly chosen and reasonably priced.  -Bryan Miller

Hours: Lunch: Th-Fri: noon-2 p.m.; Dinner: Tu-Sat: 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Sun: 4:30-8:30 p.m.; Mon: Closed

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Buffet de la Gare 155 Southside Ave., Hastings-on-Hudson

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