Charmingly French in Quebec

By Judy Hevrdejs | Tribune staff reporter

November 18, 2007

Hotel Le Priori

15, Rue Sault-au-Matelot, Quebec City, Canada; 800-351-3992;http://www.hotellepriori.com

I went to Quebec City and slept with four people in leather jackets. OK, so they were actually four good-looking types, one who stared past his Elvis-curled forelock at me from a 4-foot tall movie poster hanging at the foot of the queen-size bed in my room at Hotel Le Priori. The movie poster is probably the first thing that catches your eye once you enter Room 55 at this hip little pocket of a hotel tucked in Quebec City's Old Port (Vieux Port) district.

Long before you get to your room, though, the hotel's contemporary-art-in-your-face sensibility is apparent in the bright orange and ocher Warhol-esque composition of faces hanging behind the reception desk, in the modern lighting fixtures and in the life-size shark -- painted and baring its teeth -- on the walls of the elevator in this 18th Century building, once the home of noted Quebec architect Jean Baillairge.

You get the picture, right? Or at least the feel of this tiny hotel in a gallery-and-museum rich neighborhood. And tiny it is. A linebacker for the Chicago Bears might find some spaces a challenge. But for those I met in the hallways and at breakfast -- a couple on holiday, several young businesswomen -- the size and laid-back un-hotelness of Le Priori suited them perfectly. It's a place that's not overtly posh, but it's got personality.

And there's this bonus: Located on what's claimed to be the oldest street in North America, you're at the back door of the city's Museum of Civilization (Musee de la civilisation), and a few blocks from the St. Lawrence River and historic sites. Plus, it's just a 10-minute walk up, down and around stone streets and stairways from the delightful shopping-dining of rue St.-Jean.

CHECKING IN: The lobby is a minimalist's prayer answered: a reception desk, fireplace, comfy chair, divan, rack of newspapers (in French and English), artworks and extensive stonework. (It's also where the copy machine, fax machine, and access to the Internet reside.) At that reception desk, check-in was a snap, thanks to a genial young woman named Sophie, who took my name and credit card, then explained that a breakfast buffet, included in the room's price, would be served from 7 to 10 a.m. in the hotel's restaurant, Toast.

ATTITUDE: Need a map? An idea for dinner? Don't expect to find piles of brochures cluttering the lobby. Instead, Sophie solved both my problems and more, providing me with a map and dinner suggestions for when I visited mid-October -- a slow season, she explained -- so Toast would be closed for dinner. And when a lamp in my room didn't work, Sophie came to the rescue.

ROOMS: The hotel has 26 rooms (including five suites) on five floors, overlooking a courtyard or the street. Rooms are outfitted with a queen-sized bed, down comforter, 26-inch LCD television (with CD-DVD), air conditioning, Wi-Fi, coffeemaker, amenities (hairdryer, iron, ironing board, umbrella and small safe) plus a choice of a shower or clawfoot tub.

My room was a standard room and $159 before taxes. It had that movie poster touting Olivier Assayas' rock band tale, "Desordre," but it also overlooked a tree-filled courtyard, the window opening out onto a peaceful mid-October full of fall's golden colors. (Of course, things might be less peaceful during summer when guests fill its tables and chairs.)

Possibly the most dominant feature in the room is a large artisan-crafted armoire. Inside, there was an extra blanket and the amenities mentioned.

Some walls were stone, others painted a soft moss green. There's a ceiling fan and a flat screen TV that delivers CNN, ABC, Fox and more.

A small desk near the window held the phone, a small coffeemaker (plus assorted teas and coffee) and a gray linen box with the usual fact sheets and stationery, plus a CD inventory

The queen-sized bed boasts a black-leather headboard, lots of pillows and a fluffy ivory duvet striped in a deep blue, wine red and moss green. Yes, even with that movie poster, the comfy bed moved me to slumberland in minutes.

BATHROOM: Just inside the entrance to the room sits a conical stainless steel sink, mirror and lighted magnifying mirror. The shower, toilet and another mirror are located behind a wooden pocket door in the slate bathroom. Towels, though not super plush, are sufficient. Fruits & Passion shampoo, shower gel and body lotion sit on a small counter.

KID FRIENDLY: The hotel can arrange for babysitting service. We did not see any activities or facilities specifically geared to children.

ROOM SERVICE: None.

PERKS & PEEVES: There's lots to like about this hotel: the quiet neighborhood, the boutique feeling, the comfortable rooms, the tasty breakfast (scrambled eggs, sausages, ham, bacon, fruits, yogurt, cereals, so-so croissants, toast and bagels, coffee and tea). The hotel can organize ski shuttles for guests to the nearby Mont-Sainte-Anne ski resort some 40 or so minutes away.

And the peeves? Maybe it was because the hotel was in a between-season-fix-up-mode, but a handyman could solve all my peeves in an afternoon -- paint the spackle that was plastered over the anchor holding the television to the wall, stain the big scratch on the wooden door to the bathroom, and glue the second "5" more securely on the room's front door.

BOTTOM LINE: When I visited in mid-October, my room was $159 Canadian ($163.68 U.S.), breakfast included. With taxes, the rate totaled $191.42 U.S. (Taxes are a 7.95 percent Quebec sales tax, a 6 percent provincial tax and a 3 percent tourism tax.)

Suites offer a variety of amenities -- a fireplace, for example, or whirlpool or full kitchen. Prices for standard rooms start at $149 and suites at $269 Canadian ($155 and $281 U.S., respectively, at the current exchange rate of $.97 Canadian to the U.S. dollar).

The hotel is handicap accessible (except for the suites, which are reachable only by steps). The hotel suggests you advise them if you need special accommodations.

NEXT WEEK IN TRAVEL

Alan Solomon previews Quebec City's 400th birthday party.

IN THE WEB EDITION

For a video look at Hotel Le Priori, go to chicagotribune.com/sleepingaround