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Portsmouth, N.H. blends the old and the new

BY SHAWNA VANNESS | shawna.vanness@newsday.com

July 6, 2008

Oh Portsmouth, my how you've grown.

Tucked along New Hampshire's seacoast, Portsmouth is a city that's always had classic New England appeal (think gracious old Colonials, scenic harbors and that small-town, convivial atmosphere). But it's just been within the past few years that it's burgeoned into a destination that, along with its historic sites, offers culture, entertainment, shopping and a truly mind-blowing number of restaurants - all within the span of a half-dozen blocks.

But make no mistake - what's happening here has not been a full-fledged transformation. Rather, the city has carefully retained its heritage while growing into the 21st century.

Trendy clothing boutiques take up residence in historic buildings. Expensive restaurants share the sidewalk with ultra-casual seafood shacks and ice-cream stands. While one 17th century oceanfront hotel was restored in 2003 after years of neglect, a modern Hilton also was recently built downtown. Free wireless Internet access is available throughout much of the city.

This congenial, old-meets-new spirit seems contagious.

Year-round residents play nice with tourists hogging the sidewalks and gaping at restaurant menus posted in the windows. Locals lingering around Market Square with their coffee and Sunday Boston Globe barely seem bothered by teenagers loudly jumping curbs with their skateboards.

Named this year as the only New England city among the National Trust for Historic Preservation's "Dozen Distinctive Destinations" for its "captivating blend of coastal beauty, historic buildings and lively downtown," Portsmouth has been lauded, too, for being walkable. There's also charter boat fishing and sightseeing cruises, family-friendly museums and historic home tours for the taking.

Not bad for a city of just 21,000 residents. Spend a weekend in Portsmouth, and you might - if just for a moment - consider becoming one of them.

WHERE TO STAY

BUDGET

Hilton Garden Inn

100 High St., 603-431-1499

hiltongardeninn.com

Rates: $124-$234

Opened last year, this hotel is located downtown within walking distance of shops, restaurants and sights.

MODERATE

The Governor's House

32 Miller Ave., 603-427-5140

governors-house.com

Rates: $155-$245