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Saratoga Springs: A very full day at the races

BY MARSHALL S. BERDAN | Special to Newsday

July 13, 2008

In the summer of 1863, ex-prizefighter and future Congressman John Morrissey concluded that the well-heeled patrons at the trendy upstate resort town of Saratoga Springs could benefit - and he could profit - from having a little mental stimulation between mindless salt baths. And so was born the annual Saratoga Race Course meet of the New York Racing Association (NYRA), six weeks of creative and recreational horsing around in the relative cool and sophistication of the Spa City. While the town itself still caters heavily to the thoroughbred set, there is much to amuse, entertain, and educate horse enthusiasts of all stripes - and ages for that matter - as unlike many other tracks, the Grand Old Lady of Saratoga actually welcomes minors. So grab the kids and gallop north for what is destined to be a truly memorable day at the races.

Once around the backstretch

The very first - as in before 9:15 a.m. - equine attraction is the free backstretch tour at America's oldest - and by most accounts, still best - operating racetrack. A tram takes you back to 165-acre Clare Court, August Belmont's (yes, that Belmont) original training and rehab course, where you spend the next 45 minutes hoofing it around the sights, sounds and smells of morning workouts in the company of a NYRA guide. Among the highlights for the kids, a hands-on introduction to working ponies (generally retired racehorses, one of whom at Saratoga just happens to be Funny Cide, winner of the 2004 Kentucky Derby and Preakness), a practice starting gate and a manure pit so fertile its contents are sold to commercial mushroom farms in Pennsylvania. Backstretch tours operate on a first-come, first-served basis from 8:00-9:15 a.m.

Either before or after your tour, sit down to a tasty trackside tradition - the buffet breakfast on the grandstand's Porch, with veteran track commentator Mary Ryan providing the running commentary on the morning workouts. (Breakfast served daily 7-9:30 a.m.; $14.95 adults, $7.95 ages 3-12, 888-285-5961)

A show place for winners

Before post time, trot across Union Avenue to the National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame (518-584-0400, www.racingmuseum.org), a celebration of 300 years of horse racing in America including the 176 horses, 88 jockeys, and 84 trainers enshrined in the Hall of Fame. Younger children will enjoy the Horse Play! exhibit where they groom a stuffed horse, try on silks and nail in plastic horseshoes, while children of all ages will be impressed with the dramatic, IMAX-like documentaries shown in the auditorium. Those with previous riding experience can test their onboard skills atop a mechanical horse that "runs" against a video track backdrop. (Museum hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. during the meet. Admission is $7 adults, $5 seniors and children ages 5 to 18). This year's induction ceremony is Aug. 4.

The mane event

Families will probably be better off securing a picnic table in the shaded grove surrounding the paddock where the kids can get a good look at the horses and jockeys before each race (which is viewed on ubiquitous TV monitors), especially since you can bring in your own coolers (everything except glass bottles are allowed). But don't leave without at least once braving the grandstand crowd and elbowing your way to the rail to watch them fly across the finish line. No matter how your horse runs, a day at the races in Saratoga is sure to be a big winner in everyone's book.

Post time is 1 p.m. every day except Tuesday. Admission is $3 (clubhouse $5), children 12 and younger, free. Parking is free in the general admission lot, $10 in the trackside lot.

Chukkers, anyone?

For equine competition of a less circular nature, head out to 42-acre Whitney Field - only a mile from downtown - and catch the thrice weekly matches at Saratoga Polo (518-584-8108, www.saratogapolo.com). Needless-to-say, it's a different sport - think hockey on horseback - and different crowd - think Thurston and Lovey Howell - altogether. Polo continues to be dominated by Argentines who play six chukkers of seven minutes each. Children will find the frenzied and unpredictable action riveting and enjoy the break after the third chukker when spectators are encouraged to enter the field of play and stomp divots back into place.

Polo is played Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays at 5:30 p.m. General admission is $20 per carload, or pay $20 per person to hobnob at Saratoga Polo managing director Jim Rossi's white tented event, featuring unlimited hors d'oeuvres.

Horses of different colors

Aspiring jocks who aren't quite ready for the real thing can complete a few circuits at the Congress Park Carousel (50 cents a ride) which features 28 hand-carved wooden horses from the studio of Russian immigrant Marcus Charles Illions. The horses - all works of art - date from about 1910 and were saved from the auction block in 1987 for $150,000. While strolling Broadway, you can see some of their 34 modern fiberglass counterparts, full-sized, creative offerings courtesy of the Saratoga Arts Council.

Getting there

Saratoga Springs is located 175 miles north of New York City on I-87. For detailed information on this year's meet, which runs from July 23-Sept. 1, contact NYRA at 518-584-6200, nyra.com. For practical information about Saratoga Springs, including lodging and dining options, contact The Saratoga County Chamber of Commerce (518-584-3255, saratoga.org) or the Saratoga Convention and Tourism Bureau (518-584-1531, discoversaratoga.org).