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La Catena

871 Saw Mill River Rd. Ardsley, NY 914-231-9260

Linguine with clams on the half shell is

(Credit: Leslie Barbaro)

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Price range: $$$ (Expensive) Description:

Time stands still at this classic and cosseting Northern Italian standby. The dining room, done is soothing Tuscan gold with dark wood wainscoting, is quiet and comfortable. Courtly captains in black tie anticipate your every wish and they still perform table-side service, a civilized if nearly vanished amenity. Diners at least many of the regulars acknowledge the effort by dressing up (although it is not necessary).

There are few unfamiliar tunes on this gastronomic jukebox. Standards from both ends of the boot are prepared with care, among them shrimp scampi, linguine alle vongole, vitello al saltimbocca and zuppa di pesce. Wines are moderately priced. -Bryan Miller

Hours: Lunch: Mon-Fri: noon-3 p.m.; Dinner: Mon-Th: 3-9:45 p.m.; Fri: 3-10:45 p.m.; Sat: noon-10:45 p.m.; Sun: noon-9:45 p.m. Reservations: Accepted