Great grilled cheese

By Elaine Paoloni | amNewYork Features Editor

October 4, 2006

Grilled cheese from 'wichcraft (handout)

As the cooler weather settles in, there's nothing more comforting at the table than a warm grilled cheese sandwich. Whether a classic American on white or a fancy raclette on baguette, here are some varieties that will keep you satisfied.

'wichcraft The most popular cheesy creation here seems to be the grilled fontina cheese. It comes layered with black trumpet mushrooms and white truffle fondue -- a mixture of white truffles, butter and cheese -- on white pullman bread ($9). There's also a tasty grilled cheddar with smoked ham, pear and mustard on cranberry-pecan bread ($6). (Multiple locations; 212-780-0577)

Artisanal At lunch, you can order the English cheddar sandwich with smoked bacon and apple ($14.50). It combines sweet and savory, smooth and crunchy to perfection. There's also Terance Brennan's take on the croque monsieur ($14.50), made with prosciutto and gruyere, coated with egg then grilled. (2 Park Avenue; 212-725-8585)

Peanut Butter & Co. On the menu, there's a classic grilled cheese sandwich ($5.50) made with butter and American cheese. But those who own "The Peanut Butter & Co. Cookbook" know to ask for a grilled cheese with peanut butter ($6), which is featured in the book. It may sound strange, but anyone who's ever enjoyed vending-machine cheese-and peanut-butter crackers should give it a try. (240 Sullivan Street; 212-677-3995)

Swizz The restaurant's toasts ($12 each) are made with raclette, a Swiss mountain cheese. There's one topped with caramelized onions and another with sauteed mixed mushrooms. To add to the overall flavor, the bread is sprinkled with white wine, fresh herbs, pepper and paprika before cooking. (310 West 53rd Street; 212-810-4444)

Panino'teca The gooey fontina, mozzarella and provolone toast ($7) comes on white pullman bread. The more adventurous should try the hot-pressed panini of smoked mozzarella and anchovy butter ($9). Kids can come up with their own combos, but the shop says its mozzarella grilled cheese ($5) is a favorite. (275 Smith Street; Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn; 718-237-2728)

Ditch Plains The grilled cheese ($9) is offered as a once-a-week special on Sundays. Gruyere is melted on country bread , and diners can add on whatever they like -- from a simple slice of tomato to lobster -- for an extra charge. (29 Bedford Street; 212-633-0202)