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WHAT A powerful, sumptuous red blend. It's 65 percent merlot, 30 percent cabernet sauvignon, 3 percent petit verdot and 2 percent syrah.
WHERE Bedell Cellars, 36225 Main Rd. (Route 25), Cutchogue; 631-734-7537, bedellcellars.com
WHY This is a sensational wine from a great vintage, balanced and intense, with ripe fruit. Full of blackberries, with suggestions of spice, all leading to a long finish. It may be the most memorable wine from Bedell, which started in 1980. Expect it to mature beautifully.
NOTABLE The label for this artful wine stems, appropriately, from a merlot-grapes daguerreotype by Chuck Close.
SERVE WITH Red meat, ripe cheeses.
PRICE $90 (Credit: Handout)

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12 toast-worthy LI wines

In the year when Long Island celebrates the 40th anniversary of the modern wine industry, there are many choices for toasting.

What started with a modest rosé from Hargrave Vineyard has become a source of some of the nation's best wines this side of the Rockies. After a blind tasting of a wine list's worth of local reds and whites, sparkling and still, dry and sweet, these dozen choices finished at the top.

It's the case for Long Island. And there are about another 100 wines that bid fair to be number 13.

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