Text size:

ANEGADA ISLAND: Sailing away to sample a simpler life

BY EILEEN OGINTZ | TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES

July 23, 2006

Vernon Soars didn't just fantasize about living his dream on a speck of an island. He did it, taking his wife and four young kids along for the ride.

They lived in tents on a deserted, spectacular stretch of beach on Anegada in the British Virgin Islands, where Soars launched a commercial fishing business about 40 years ago. Most of the 50-plus BVI islands and cays are so close to one another that they're within sight, which is one reason why they're so popular with sailors, especially novices like us.

Anegada, comprised entirely of coral and limestone and known for its spectacular sea life and gargantuan lobsters, is only about 11 miles long, just 28 feet above sea level at its highest point, and a world away, it seems. When Soars and his family arrived here from Bermuda, there were no roads or electricity, not even fresh water. The nearest phone was five miles away. The kids went to school via a small boat piloted by the oldest child, who was just 9 at the time.

Sure, it sounds idyllic, like Swiss Family Robinson, but it couldn't have been easy. Still, Soars, the head of a huge commercial fishing operation that supplies the British Virgin Islands with swordfish, smiles at the telling - how he built a boat in Bermuda and sailed it here. His wife, Julie, died several years ago, and his family is scattered. I would love to have heard Julie's take on the adventure.

Soars is nursing a cup of coffee at Pam's Bakery, run by one of his granddaughters and her husband. We met them when they motored out to our sailboat to see if we wanted to buy freshly baked bread. More than 60 boats are anchored just offshore, and in the morning, sailors wander into the bakery for egg sandwiches (called "hangover cures") and blueberry muffins so irresistible that they're quickly sold out.

Soars isn't the only one who came here to nurse a dream. A short walk up the beach, Lorraine Wheatley, 25, has her own plan. She grew up here and went to the United States for college and graduate school.

But when her father, Lowell, was killed in an accident a few years ago, she and her brother Lawrence took over the 16-room Anegada Reef Hotel (www.an egadareef.com). "We're trying to keep it the same," she said.

Though tourists have begun to discover Anegada, it's still about as far off the beaten path as you can get. Only a few hundred people - members of just 20 families - live here, said our cab driver, Jerry Vanterpool, as he drove down a bumpy road to Loblolly Beach, where the snorkeling is especially fine. We see star coral, angelfish, tiger grouper, parrot fish and even a big sea turtle. Also fine are the rum punches at the funky cafe.

Sailing to Anegada can be tricky because the small island is ringed with reef. There have been more than 300 known wrecks here over the years. Some resorts, like the Bitter End Yacht Club on the island of Virgin Gorda (www.beyc.com), send their guests here for the day, and there are other day excursions to Anegada. But most come on sailboats as we did.

Summer is a particularly popular time for family trips to the BVI and elsewhere in the Caribbean, because the weather isn't much different here in summer than in winter (typically in the mid 80s), rates drop by as much as 50 percent, and airline fares are significantly lower, according to the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.doitcaribbean.com), which represents 32 islands. In fact, many consider summer in the Caribbean to be "family season," with special programs and deals.

For example, the yacht charter company Footloose (www.footloosecharters.com) is touting special summer deals enabling a family to charter a yacht that can sleep six for less than $1,200 a week. Its sister company, Moorings (www.moorings.com), has flotilla packages in which you sail as part of a group, complete with beach parties, kids' activities, skipper briefings and a trip to Anegada.

You'll find good deals through Thanksgiving, including villas that are ideal for families. (Check www.bvi tourism.com.) Remember that this is hurricane season, though the BVI and lower Caribbean seem to have largely escaped hurricanes in recent years. Before booking anywhere, see what kind of guarantees hoteliers and airlines will offer should weather impinge upon your plans.

"You'll find they're very flexible," said Theresa Oaks, a spokeswoman for the Caribbean Tourism Organization. Moorings/Footloose, depending on the severity and direction of the storm, will recall your yacht and take every action within their power to ensure your safety and your comfort, said spokeswoman Josephine Williams, adding that credits would be given toward another charter.

Travel insurance from such companies as Travel Guard International (www.travelguard.com) also can protect your vacation investment.

Whenever you go, you won't get any farther away from the crowd than on Anegada, where there's nothing to do but swim, snorkel, fish, sail and count the stars at night.

"The beaches are so pristine - it's a great place for kids," said Sharon Brownell, who was visiting from Massachusetts and couldn't wait to return with her grandkids.

A string of restaurants and small hotels (rooms can be reserved for $70 a night) now ring the Anegada harbor, including Neptune's Treasure (www.neptunestrea sure.com), owned by the Soars family. We stopped there one night to gorge on the giant lobsters, which are prepared outside on grills, under the stars one night. However, you can't just waltz in and order one: You have to call ahead to reserve your lobster as well as a table. No need for shoes, though. You'll probably be eating with your toes in the sand.

Months later, my gang is still talking about that meal - especially when we're having leftovers.

For more Taking the Kids, visit

www.takingthekids.com