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On the grow in suburban Philly's Morris Arboretum

Jan Tyler

The University of Pennsylvania's Morris Arboretum has a collection of 14,000 plants and trees.

WHERE

It would be hard to find an "off-the-beaten-path" destination with more to offer than the northwest fringes of Philadelphia, location of the University of Pennsylvania's Morris Arboretum and the neighboring small community of Chestnut Hill, with its centuries-old architecture and bustling shopping district.

Now world-renowned for its horticultural research, the 98-acre arboretum was founded by siblings John and Lydia Morris, scions of a wealthy ironworks family, who willed their estate to the university in 1932. Never married, the pair of plant enthusiasts had traveled the world seeking rare species for the estate, helping to amass a collection that has grown to its current 14,000 plants and trees. The arboretum is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is the official arboretum of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania.

While the arboretum's meadows and lawns, swan pond and the meandering Wissahickon Creek provide pastoral vistas for nature lovers, this lovely public garden's greenhouses, fernery and theme gardens make it a mecca for horticulturists, both amateur and professional. Japanese and English influences define specially designed sections, shade and marsh plantings thrive in their natural habitats. The centerpiece of the park, a spectacular rose garden - at its fragrant, colorful best in June - is enclosed by a balustrade of carved stone that lends a classic backdrop to the luscious blooms.

More architectural embellishments add stature to the grounds: scaled-down replicas of Greek temples, garden follies, fountains and even a log cabin come into view as one strolls the curving paved paths. Miniatures of dozens of historic buildings handcrafted of twigs and bark - including the 1740 Betsy Ross house, 1787 Congress Hall and an 1800 engine house - line the tracks of a delightful model railway that snake through tunnels, over trestles and around shrubs and waterfalls. In a grove of redwoods, visitors can climb a ramp to a railed platform built into the treetop canopy where they can experience a bird's-eye view of the surroundings.

Many sculptures chosen by the arboretum's fine arts committee interact with the natural landscape: realistic Cotswold sheep graze in a pasture; bronze statues of John and Lydia Morris in the garb of their Victorian era stand serenely on a hill gazing at their legacy.

Morris Arboretum of the University of Pennsylvania, 100 Northwestern Ave., Philadelphia, Pa., 19118 (215-247-5777; morrisarboretum.org). Admission: adults, $10; seniors, $8; younger than 18, $5; younger than 3, free. The Garden Railway opens on Memorial Weekend. The arboretum is open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. from April to October and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. November to March.

To get there, from Hudson River crossings take New Jersey Turnpike or I-95 south to Pennsylvania Turnpike West. At exit 333, take Germantown Pike east for 3 miles. Make left on Northwestern Avenue, go for 1/4 mile to arboretum entrance on right.

ATTRACTIONS

A mile to the left when exiting the arboretum, Germantown Pike leads to the upscale but unpretentious town of Chestnut Hill, which Forbes Magazine recently listed as one of the seven most desirable communities in the country. A browser's heaven, the cobblestone main drag, Germantown Avenue, is lined with unusual specialty shops and boutiques housed in renovated 18th and 19th century buildings. Offerings include everything from the usual antiques and crafts to beads, leather goods, toys, flowers, candles and chocolate. Find decorative papers at Paperia, 8521 Germantown Ave. (215-247- 8521), hard-to-find handyman items like push-button light switches and mortise locks at Kilian's, 8450 Germantown Ave. (kilianhardware.com), an old-time neighborhood hardware emporium. And at the Philadelphia Print Shop, No. 8441 (philaprintshop .com), you might run into proprietors Christopher Lane and Donald Cresswell, who often are featured as antique print and map experts on TV's "Antiques Roadshow."

In the community of Chestnut Hill, the Valley Green section of Fairmount Park (215-247-0417, fow.org) is open to the public with free parking. It offers hiking trails through a scenic gorge and horseback riding from Northwestern Stables (215- 242-8892; northwesternsta bles.com).

For information, contact the Chestnut Hill Business Association (215-247-6696).

WHERE TO STAY

The Chestnut Hill Hotel, 8229 Germantown Ave., Chestnut Hill (215-242-5905; chestnuthillhotel.com), is a Victorian-era hotel near shops and restaurants. A farmers' market on the grounds is open weekends. Doubles, $139-$199 with breakfast.

Silverstone B & B, 8840 Stenton Ave., Chestnut Hill (215-242-3333; silverstonestay .com). Victorian Gothic mansion with five rental rooms within walking distance of the commercial district. Doubles, $95-$145.

WHERE TO EAT

The Café at Morris Arboretum in the Visitors Center serves freshly made soups, $4, salads, $6, and sandwiches, $5. Open daily 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Johnathan's Best Gourmet Grocery, 8229 Germantown Ave. (215-248-4344), in a renovated 19th century carbarn with three tables and takeout. Serves snacks, salads, such as mixed greens, dried cranberries, pine nuts and pecans, $5.95, and European-style sandwiches on pita, $6.95.

Chestnut Grill & Sidewalk Café, 8229 Germantown Ave. (enter from Chestnut Hill Hotel, 215-247-7570). American cuisine; features coconut shrimp, $8, and salads.