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Everything old is new in Marblehead

BY DEBORAH LYNN BLUMBERG | Special to Newsday

August 31, 2008

A small seafaring town steeped in Revolutionary War lore, Marblehead, Mass., is an ideal getaway for history and nature lovers alike. Just 17 miles north of Boston, the town has been called the yachting capital of America and the birthplace of the American Navy, and is home to more than 200 homes and buildings erected in Colonial times. To get there, take I-95 North to I-84 East. Continue on I-95 North/128 North. Take Exit 25A to 114 East toward Salem. The road turns into Pleasant Street. From Pleasant, turn right on Washington Street, the historic district's main road. For visitor information, call the Marblehead Chamber of Commerce at 781-631-2868 or go to marble headchamber.org.

ATTRACTIONS

Visitors can drive or bike across a short causeway to the Marblehead Neck, a peninsula extending into Massachusetts Bay that offers stunning views of the sea. The neck is home to sprawling mansions, yacht clubs and the Marblehead Neck Wildlife Sanctuary (Risley Road), a haven for migratory birds. Admission is free. Also on the neck is the Marblehead Lighthouse, built in 1835 in Chandler Hovey Park (Follett Street). The park, also a good spot for swimming, is dotted with benches and picnic tables.

Devereux Beach is Marblehead's main spot for sunbathing and swimming. The sandy beach has public restrooms and a casual restaurant on site. Nonresident parking fees are $5 Monday to Thursday and $10 Friday to Sunday and holidays, from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Abbot Hall (188 Washington St., 781-631-0000, abbot hall.org) is Marblehead's town hall and a historical museum that houses the renowned Spirit of '76 painting shown at the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. Visitors can also see the deed to Marblehead given to the town by the Nanapashemet tribe in 1684.

From June to October, the The Marblehead Museum & Historical Society (170 Washington St., 781-631-1768, marble headmuseum.org) is open Tuesday-Saturday 10 a.m.-4 p.m. (open Tuesday-Friday the rest of the year). Guided tours of the Jeremiah Lee Mansion and Gardens ($5, 161 Washington St.) take visitors through a Colonial Georgian home built in 1768 for Jeremiah Lee, a merchant, shipowner and Revolutionary War supporter said to be the wealthiest man in Massachusetts at the time.

Old Burial Hill (99 Orne St.) is one of the oldest graveyards in New England and the site of Marblehead's first place of worship, built in 1648. The cemetery is the resting place of an estimated 600 Revolutionary War heroes, and victims of the Salem witch trials.

WHERE TO SHOP

Antiquewear (82 Front St., 781-639-0070, antiquewear .com) sells unique jewelry - lockets, cuff links and more - crafted from buttons from the 1800s by owner Jerry Fine. Pieces depict myths, nautical and other scenes and come with a write-up on the button's origin. Prices from $35 into the hundreds. Fine will also craft old family buttons into jewelry.

Housed in an open and airy fisherman-type shack near Crocker Park, Mis-Chris Designs (1 Water St., 781-639- 7733) sells handmade mugs, plates, serving dishes and other earthenware and holds pottery classes.

WHERE TO STAY

The Marblehead Inn ($99-$250, 264 Pleasant St., 800-399-5843, marbleheadinn.com) is a late-1800s Victorian just outside the historic district. Rooms and suites include kitchenettes; most have Jacuzzis.

A quaint option in the heart of the historic district, The Harbor Light Inn ($145-$345, 58 Washington St., 781-631-2186, harborlightinn.com) is also just a short walk away from the harbor. Many rooms have working fireplaces, Jacuzzis, sun decks or patios. A continental breakfast, afternoon tea and cordials are included in the price. There's a two-night minimum on the weekends.

The Fox Pond Bed and Breakfast (31 Arthur Ave., 781-631-1630, foxpondbnb .com) has three charming rooms from $99 to $250 depending on the size and season. Breakfast is included.

WHERE TO EAT

Foodie's Feast (114 Washington St., 781-639-1104, foodies feast.com) is a cafe and catering company that's good for a quick in-restaurant bite or a carryout for a harborside picnic. The cafe - known for its tasty scones and rock cakes - serves breakfast all day and also sells salads, hot and cold drinks, cookies, pies and gourmet sandwiches for less than $10.

The Landing Restaurant (81 Front St., 781-639-1266, thelandingrestaurant.com) overlooks the harbor and serves traditional New England fare - baked scrod and lobster casserole - and pasta dishes, many seafood-heavy. Deck seating is available.

A steak and seafood restaurant overlooking the harbor, The Barnacle (141 Front St., 781-631-4232) is a casual lunch and dinner spot that offers outdoors dining.

For a cold treat, Coffey Ice Cream (118 Washington St., 781-639-1545, coffeyicecream .com) stocks more than 50 flavors of ice cream and yogurt and more than 25 toppings. Malted frappés, root-beer floats and doggie sundaes are also available. Summer hours are noon to 9:30 p.m. seven days a week.