Nature, culture and shopping along the Maine coast

By Marshall S. Berdan | Special to Newsday

There's more to Maine than just lobsters and lighthouses - as any experienced Maine-iac will attest. Though New England's largest state is mostly mountains, lakes, rivers and pristine wilderness, the biggest draw for summer visitors is its stunningly picturesque coastline. First-time visitors would be cheating themselves if they didn't test the tourism waters where, indeed, there are plenty of iconic lobsters and lighthouses.

WHEN TO GO

The sometimes-rugged and sometimes-gentle beauty of the Maine coast is no state secret. Prime season runs mid-June through September, and that means the double-whammy of crowds and higher prices - though the recession is expected to take some of the sting out of both this year. But whether you are coming for several weeks or just the weekend, make your lodging reservations in advance or be prepared to scramble to find any storm shelter in the port.

WHERE TO GO

Here we offer seven of Maine's premier coastal destinations, each of which offers something unique for the first-time or long-time-no-see visitor. Each provides a good base from which to explore off-the-beaten-path areas. String several together, and you've got yourself a genuine Down East vacation.

Boothbay Harbor

BEST FOR Harbor enthusiasts and water excursionists

WHY GO Primarily a tourist town, greater Boothbay, which boasts four lighthouses, a working fishing fleet and its trademark footbridge, still retains enough of its maritime character and purpose to enthrall visitors. And the overall effect is even more evocative in foggy weather.

TO DO Get out on the water with 2- to 3-hour cruises to Burnt Island Lighthouse to watch whales and puffins or an all-day excursion to rustic Monhegan Island; visit the Marine Resources Aquarium and Boothbay Railway Village.

STAY While there are plenty of B and Bs and motels ($85-$265) to choose from, larger inns overlooking the harbor are the best option ($89-$235), not only for their location, but because they solve Boothbay's prodigious parking problem.

SEAFOOD You can't beat the Cabbage Island Clambake (Pier 6, 207-633-7200), a 31/2-hour dining excursion that includes chowder, lobster, clams, corn, dessert, and a scenic harbor cruise For romantic, sunset views over the water, head to the Ocean Point Inn (Shore Road, East Boothbay, 207-633-4200).

INFO 207-633-2353, boothbayharbor.com

Camden / Rockport

BEST FOR The artistically and aesthetically inclined, leisure travelers who enjoy doing nothing in particular

WHY GO Arguably Maine's most picturesque towns, Camden and Rockport are at the base of 1,380-foot Mount Battie on the western shore of expansive Penobscot Bay. Home to generations of genteel summer residents, Camden and Rockport are picture-postcard towns, their downtowns lined with charming, tidy shops, their harbors full of twinkling sails, and the immaculate gardens of their summer residents full of multicolored flowers.

TO DO See the view from Mount Battie (accessible by car); visit the Farnsworth Art Museum and Wyeth Center; take a day sail (usually 2-3 hours); drive and hike out to gloriously understated Owls Head Light.

STAY Upscale Victorian inns and B and Bs constitute the "standard" fare - the most desirable are in the residential district ($125-$299).

SEAFOOD It doesn't get any more Maine-line than the always crowded but highly efficient Lobster Pound Restaurant (US 1, Lincolnville Beach, 207-789-5550). For a real splurge, make reservations (mandatory) for the five-course, prix-fixe extravaganza ($45) at chef Michael Salmon's Hartstone Inn (421 Elm St., Camden, 207-236-4259).

INFO 207-236-4404, camdenme.org

Portland